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Routes in Super Crack Tower

A Marriage Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Consumation Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dancing with the Other Woman T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Pink Hummer Tour T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hotdog in a Hallway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Inception T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
North Face Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pre-Marital Sex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Runaway Groom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Shotgun Wedding T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofurkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkish Bride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Turkish Delight T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walk the Plank T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer & a Beer T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V2 5+
Window of Opportunity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windows Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
X-tra Marital Sex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA: Jake D, Kole D & Amy L, 3/08 FFA: Mark G & Mike K, 5/08
Page Views: 12,270 total, 105/month
Shared By: Mike on May 21, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A great route on a great tower with stunning scenery and no crowds.

The climb starts up a face about 15' left (up-gully) of the left side of the obvious corner/gully on the North Face. From Turkish Bride, walk up and left up "The Bowling Alley" to just past the big corner system shown on the Turkish Bride topo.

P1: Walk up the gully (left) for about 15', then traverse right to the first bolt. You can see the bolt from the ground, but not from the start of the traverse. Continue up some funky face moves past a couple more bolts to a limestone band. Then traverse a few moves right to a 2-bolt anchor at the base of the first window. (5.10a)

P2: Stem and bridge up the beautiful chimney past 2 bolts and a small cam placement to a roof crack. Jam the crack out of the chimney (west) and pull up into an excellent dihedral. Follow dihedral to the second window and another 2 bolt anchor. A stellar pitch with great moves! (5.10b/c)

P3: Another good pitch! Continue up the nice dihedral as it starts to get wider; bring some big gear for this pitch. Towards the top the crack gets steeper and wider, but a convenient chockstone and a rail on each side make this easier than it looks. After grunting though the last bulge, finish up a short ramp to the notch, then scramble up the face to the summit and a 2-bolt anchor. (5.10b)

Rap the route to descend. We used a single 70m rope, but a 60m would PROBABLY work.

Protection

A standard Sedona rack, plus a bigger piece or 2 for the third pitch.
Andy McQuillen
Mesa, AZ
Andy McQuillen   Mesa, AZ
Did this with a visiting friend on Wednesday, May 30. What a great route! Pretty sustained. I even enjoyed the slab pitch, which was well-protected.

On a side note- unfortunately I left an orange Nalgene with a "Hayduke Lives!" sticker, a webbing loop, and a locking carabiner up on the summit. If anyone can get me the Nalgene with the webbing, you can keep the locker. That bottle has sentimental value for me. Jun 3, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
This climb is a fantastic challenge. One of the best in Sedona for sure.
P1: Heady and tenuous slab climbing, no discernible crux, with blank sandy rock that will keep you on/off your toes. (5.10+)
P2: Truly unbelievable. Strenuous stemming for shorter folks. (5.10)
P3: Clean and relatively enjoyable offwidth. Right as things get unnervingly steep, flakes appear on side walls. I think two #4 and one #5 is a good setup for this pitch. (5.10-) Oct 18, 2016
The stem box is much more difficult if you are short. I am 5'3 and could not move up by stemming at the widest parts. Epic pitch. Feb 21, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.10
Michael Dom  
  5.10
Really cool summit! I ended up going up the opposite side of the second pitch and lost a .4 in there. It was definitely an epic getting up the wrong side. I even had to crawl through that window to get to the chains. The off width up top wasn't too bad as long as you have wide gear. Dec 22, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
This must be one of the most photogenic climbs ever. A climb to be drooled over, even at 15 degrees below zero during a nasty Maine winter morning. I think I'll head on over to Expedia... ;-) Mar 6, 2015
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
Josh Tokioka that sounds like the start to Extra-marital Sex. Dec 1, 2014
Josh Tokioka
Cedar City, UT
 
Josh Tokioka   Cedar City, UT
 
When starting the climb, after one has climbed up the bowling alley, do not be deceived by a silver bolt about 10 feet down from the top of the bowling alley. It leads up slabby nothingness. You want to traverse on a slopey ledge about 20 ft till you find a brown camoed bolt.

Does anyone know what the silver bolt is for? I thought perhaps it was for the belayer to clip into, or to place a first draw, but its rather high up for that. Is it possibly another climb? Nov 30, 2014
A minimal but sufficient rack...
singles BD Camalots .5-#4, #3 optional
If you want to beef it up...
2x .75, #1
STELLAR! May 31, 2013
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10+
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10+
Great route.

Chockstone is definitely gone and the 3rd pitch felt harder than the second. Had one #4 and one #5, wish I had two of each. Dec 2, 2012
Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
Possibly lost a black folding knife on this route. If anyone finds it I would greatly appreciate it back in return for some brews. Thanks Jun 1, 2012
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Approach:
Take Wilson Trail to the sign that says "End of Trail".
Continue walking in the Wilson Wash for 5-10 minutes.
Locate a climbers trail (or bushwack) up and right of the wash, in a small gully to the east side (left side) of SuperCrack tower to the base of The Windows Route. Oct 19, 2011
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Anyone know the general aspect of this route (sun/shade and time to expect either)?

Thanks Oct 14, 2011
All can say is wow and i almost shit my pants when i climbed this thing a 2 years back. Great route =). Feb 14, 2011
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
can rap the north side 3x with 1 60M - be carefull pulling ropes on final North side rap; or rap once south side from Marriage Reality anchors to base of Shotgun Wedding with 1 70M. Jan 10, 2011
Dean Hoffman  
 
Fantastic route! Found pitch one to be pretty lame, the price of admission I guess. We climbed this just to have the true experience and stay in the shade, but would probably recomend the Walk the Plank pitch or the Hotdog in a Hallway. That being said the rest of the route is amazing! Soooo fun. Second pitch is sweet and fourth pitch is true Sedona style. Don't dump one of your 4's right off the belay. I did and ended up with some pretty heady runouts!

Gear nothing smaller than .3 and doubles only from .75 up. Probably won't use all of it but you'll still be psyched. Only need the 4's for the last pitch. Definitely classic! Sep 13, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Yes very awesome. Doubles of #4 were quite helpful on p.3, #5 pretty much unneccesary. Pitch 1 isn't terribly hard and is pretty well protected, just very funky and a little sandy.

Also, be very careful linking p2&3 rappel with one 70m. Supposedly mammut makes their rope 5% longer than the stated length, and roman and I made it by about 1ft. Mar 29, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10
What an awesome, diverse, and physical climb!

With a 70m rope, we just barely made it down to the lower window (top of P1) from the top chains. Mar 29, 2010
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b/c
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b/c
First pitch is fun except for some rock peeling off. Second pitch was perfect. Third was good but a grunt. I don't recall any chockstones or rails within the offwidth...and even double checked on rappel.

GREAT route! Jun 6, 2009
Pitch 1

Not for the faint of heart. I say 5.10-Dish.


Pitch 2




The glory pitch.

Fun. Easier than it looks. 5.10 b

Pitch 3

5.10 c.

This was a very fun day.

Nov 22, 2008
Jake Dayley  
 
Some corrections: The Window Route 5.10
FA: Jake Dayley, Mark G, Mike K, Amy Lyons. 3/08.

All Pitches are roughly 5.10.
The second is one of the best in Sedona.
Two more bolts will be added to the first pitch to better protect falls in the future. Nov 12, 2008
CTK
Scottsdale
CTK   Scottsdale
Super Sweet M & M! May 30, 2008
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
a future classic! I recommend doubles to #4 Camalot. P1 is 5.10uous, P2 is 5.10 wild! P3 is 5.10 strenuous but not technically challenging. May 21, 2008