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Routes in Super Crack Tower

A Marriage Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Consumation Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dancing with the Other Woman T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Pink Hummer Tour T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hotdog in a Hallway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Inception T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
North Face Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pre-Marital Sex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Runaway Groom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Shotgun Wedding T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofurkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkish Bride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Turkish Delight T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walk the Plank T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer & a Beer T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V2 5+
Window of Opportunity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windows Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
X-tra Marital Sex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jon Ruth, Mark Geikenjoyner
Page Views: 2,281 total, 27/month
Shared By: markguycan on Nov 17, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Traverse in fom the Right, climb thu limestone band to clip the first bolt then up interesting face past huecos and bulges to the gap between towers then stem and mantle to sweet summit ledge.

Location

Right of Shotgun Wedding, rap the route

Protection

7draws + 2small nuts to place over hangerless bolts. #0.5camalot protects the start/belayer.

Photos

markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
2 bolts were left hangerless as the rock is so soft the the bolts would not tighten. Epoxy was added to try to remedy this. The bolts are 6in x 1/2in monsters so with a small nut noosed around them they should be plenty safe. The climbing is not particularly difficult at these points. While I am a bit over 6'2" I have had 5'0" partners successfully negotiated the crux without much difficulty. Apr 9, 2011
bio
mesa, az
 
bio   mesa, az
 
Although I had fun, especially at the step across on top, there is some strange stuff on this route. Two bolts are hangerless, one would take a hanger, the other is covered in glue of some sort. Also, there is a very unique threaded hueco with a piece of rope through it for a clip. I enjoyed the sense of humor and craftmanship on that one. The step across seemed harder than 5.7, probably height dependent and Mark is like 6'1" so prob felt easier for him. The route name is appropriate. Feb 13, 2011