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Routes in Super Crack Tower

A Marriage Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Consumation Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dancing with the Other Woman T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Pink Hummer Tour T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hotdog in a Hallway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Inception T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
North Face Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pre-Marital Sex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Runaway Groom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Shotgun Wedding T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofurkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkish Bride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Turkish Delight T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walk the Plank T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer & a Beer T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V2 5+
Window of Opportunity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windows Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
X-tra Marital Sex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: T. Coats, Dave Dawson 80's
Page Views: 943 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on May 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route for the few people out there who like this kind of stuff. It's like a bigger badder version of The Dodger.

Pitch 1) 5.10- 110' Start on the corner of the north and north-west faces. Traverse right on a ledge to reach the main crack system (5.6 R). Climb the sustained and physical hand crack thru many bulges to a final 10' offwidth section. At the top of the off width traverse right and scramble to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2) 5.10- PG13 80' A burly pitch. Climb the roof above the belay (5.9+). Pull an awkward bulge above the ledge, and start up the laser cut offwidth corner above. Gear is occasionally found in cracks on the right face to supplement the #6 Camalot. Physical climbing leads to a nice ledge in a room. The belay crack is inside the room in the chimney below your feet.

Pitch 3) 5.9+ R 80' Think you're done? No! Take your helmet off, suck in your gut, and worm your way up the squeeze above your head. Unprotected, but impossible to fall out of. Flop onto a ledge, and rest up for the final 30' of 5.9+R face climbing to the summit. The only gear on the pitch is a red alien 5' from the top. A fall before you get it in could result in a 20 footer onto a ledge, but you wouldn't fall off the ledge.

Descent: rap the north face with 1 rope.

Location

Park at Midgely Bridge. Hike 1 1/2 mile up Wilson Canyon Trail until 2 spires appear on the right. The right one is Super Crack Tower. Bushwhack up and right, along a ridge a few hundred yards east of SCT. When at the level of the base of the tower, bushwhack back left to the base of the tower. Scramble under the south face of the tower, then up the west side. Start left of the obvious crack system that almost touches the ground on the north-west corner.

Protection

All sizes in new Camalots.
2 each 0.1 - 4. 1 each 5, 6. Nuts. Big Bro's if you got 'em.

Photos

Ryan Z
  5.10- R
Ryan Z  
  5.10- R
I really enjoyed this climb. It is definitely not for everyone but something about wide and spicy appeals to me. Easily climbs in 2 pitches. Heading up the OW and chimney that splits the 2 towers was a great time, then you blink a few times and head up another 25ft of face.

I have climbed P1 a few times for access to turkish bride and dancing with the other woman before finishing this climb. It must have cleaned up quite a bit, with the exception of the first 15 feet, it seemed fine. Feb 13, 2014
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
Just did the 1st pitch of this route in order to get to Kole's new route to the left across the limestone band. Regrettably this first pitch ranks among one of the worst I've climbed as far as loose and dirty. That said, aside from the initail 5.6R start the protection is sufficient. The upper pitches look somewhat better. Nov 21, 2007
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Thanks for the info Tim. I corrected the route info. Sometimes it's hard to make heads from tails from the guide books when doing the lesser traveled routes. If I were to give that route a 1 sentence description "lightning bolt cracks" certainly wouldn't be it! :-) Nice route, I really enjoyed it. Dec 17, 2006
tcskis  
The route you did was the original route. Dave Dawson and I did it around 1982. Rapped off a bush, I imagine the sling blew away years ago.
Nice to see someone finally repeated it. It's a fun route. Oct 16, 2006
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Does anyone have any info on the original route on this tower? We intended to repeat it, but the higher we went the less it seemed to fit the guide book description:"north lightning bolt cracks". There were no slings or fixed anchors on the summit, so unless some bird made a nest out of them I don't think anyone could have been on this summit before. The Tower has a separate summit of the same height about 30 ft away, so I figure the original route must have summited the east tower. It was getting dark so we didn't have time to see if there was a route up that tower that fit the description better. May 18, 2006