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Pre-Marital Sex
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 110 ft |
FA: | Mike K. & Mark G. |
Page Views: | 1,021 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Mike on May 21, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Description
This route is the obvious splitter crack in a corner about 30' left (up-gully) from The Windows Route. To start, grab your gear and scramble up the gulley to the notch between the towers. Traverse in on a 5.easy ledge on a limestone band until you are below the corner. Optional belay off gear here.
Climb a short section of softer rock to the start of the nice crack. Climb crack (mostly #1 Camalots) to a ledge. Continue up a corner (fingers) and flake to a small roof crack to another ledge. Pull onto the upper summit and belay off bolts.
To descend, rap off bolted anchor. A 70m rope just makes it to the ground, but a 60m rope will easily get you back to the first ledge, where you can traverse back to the notch and down the gully.
Climb a short section of softer rock to the start of the nice crack. Climb crack (mostly #1 Camalots) to a ledge. Continue up a corner (fingers) and flake to a small roof crack to another ledge. Pull onto the upper summit and belay off bolts.
To descend, rap off bolted anchor. A 70m rope just makes it to the ground, but a 60m rope will easily get you back to the first ledge, where you can traverse back to the notch and down the gully.
flagstaff, AZ
Pasadena, CA
Also, 4-5 #1 camalots would not be uncalled for, especially if doing the direct start Mar 29, 2010
Flagstaff, AZ