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Routes in Super Crack Tower

A Marriage Reality T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Consumation Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dancing with the Other Woman T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Pink Hummer Tour T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hotdog in a Hallway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Inception T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
North Face Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pre-Marital Sex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Runaway Groom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Shotgun Wedding T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofurkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkish Bride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Turkish Delight T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walk the Plank T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer & a Beer T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V2 5+
Window of Opportunity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windows Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
X-tra Marital Sex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jake Dayley, Kole Decou
Page Views: 1,844 total, 15/month
Shared By: markguycan on Jan 25, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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just do it!

Same start as the N face route for the first pitch(dirty). Then traverse left 5.8 (exposed!) Then splitter crack corner/flake 5.10 (steep!)to below a roof with OW through it. Traverse right below roof on nice edges (exposed!)to hand and fist crack (enduro fists!)5.10 then left past slab and short hand crack to summit!

Protection

doubles to #4, #3.5 useful
Josh Tokioka
Cedar City, UT
 
Josh Tokioka   Cedar City, UT
 
Rock Quality Report:

Directly below the first set of anchors there is a large loose boulder that rocks around quite precariously. Furthermore, the entire 3 feet of dirt supporting it has deteriorated pretty extensively. of the climb. The rock quality deteriorated even more when our party got past it. I would be EXTREMELY CAREFUL at this point of the climb and conscientious of the danger. Jul 6, 2015
The traverse on pitch 1, although fairly easy, is insecure, unprotected and loose. A fall here would ruin your day, at best, but probably a lot more. Pitch 1 protects pretty well after the initial traverse, but has a lot of loose rock throughout. If you aren't comfortable with wide climbing, a 5 would help protect the end of the first pitch, but might also hinder the unavoidable groveling and thrutching up the flare. The traverse on pitch 2 across the limestone band is indeed spooky, and as far as we could tell, the only gear options are in suspect rock. Pitches 3 and 4 are fun climbing. May 27, 2015
Ryan Z
  5.10 R
Ryan Z  
  5.10 R
This is great climb. Pitches 3 and 4 are spectacular! but P1 and P2 are character pitches so it doesn't get 4 stars. Very easy to link P3 & P4. Definitely not 10+ by Sedona standards, easier than coyote tower or windows route. I brought 2 #4's and it was plenty. Aug 15, 2013
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Bu rotaya Turk Gelini taktik cunku rotayi actiktan iki uc hafta sonra bir Turk kadinla evlendim. Guzel bir rota, guzel bir kadin icin. Belki bir gun kizimiz da tirmanacak onu, ama elleri cok kucuk 3.5 numarali bir catlak icin.

Niye 'R' taktilar yeni kitabinda acaba? Olsun. Bu rota 'Windows Route' gibi orozpu olmasin. Mar 28, 2013
Merhaba Afendi. Mar 21, 2013
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Çok güzel!! Mar 21, 2013
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10
The first 2 pitches are so-so, but the last 2 pitches are superb. Jun 30, 2009
Jake Dayley
  5.10+ PG13
Jake Dayley  
  5.10+ PG13
Don't let the R rating given on this site scare you off. The only part that could be considered "R" is an unprotected 5.6 move at the beginning of the first pitch. The second pitch is spicy but it's 5.9 jugs so just punch it to the ledge. If you really wanted to protect it you could probably get some nuts in the limestone. We should have called the last pitch 10+. The moves up into the OW are sandbagged at 5.10 but they protect fine. This route is just as good if not better than The Window Route. Nov 12, 2008
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
This is an excellent and sustained all natural route. It was me and Jake's last route together in Sedona before I went to Turkey and got married and Jake moved out of town. The route climbs beautiful clean crack systems connected by airy traverses, with some grunting on the first pitch to warm you up.

I don't think the route is R-rated overall. There is a 5.6 R step across on the first pitch, and the limestone traverse is spooky but it's easy and I'm pretty sure it would protect if you took the time to find the gear.

From the summit you can now rap off with 1 rope down the Windows Route. May 22, 2008