Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Erik Mushial
Page Views: 4,005 total · 31/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on May 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

To the right of Mushroom Planet is a dihedral-like feature with an undercling hold near the end of it. Stick clip the first bolt and a directional and boulder (V7?) to the undercling and romp up the jugs above.

A very popular and relatively soft option for the grade but a good climb nevertheless. The sitstart seems a bit much--maybe try another route.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
I've heard many people call this soft... I thought it felt wicked hard so i think i need some good beta... anyone want to spray some?... May 10, 2008
I've heard people call this anywhere from V7-V9... Beta would be great! May 10, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13b
You know what the hardest thing about sending Stone Monkey is, right?



Telling your friends you're a boulderer. May 11, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
haha...well im not ready to go down that road... May 11, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.13b
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.13b
Per comments on Doctor No, this was another obvious route to be added. Rumney climbers help out those of us who want to visit! May 12, 2008
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
I'd give the boulder problem at the bottom V8 and the top half maybe 5.11d. Not sure what that adds up to, but it felt pretty stout to me. Jun 23, 2010
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
i have beta, well most of it, if u guys want the low down feel free to pm me. . . easy depends on your compression skillz. Aug 28, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
I find it funny that this route's quality rating is evenly split between 1, 2, 3 and 4 stars... perhaps the least agreed on quality rating at Rumney... haha Sep 12, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
I figured out beta for this today and found it to be better than i thought... maybe a 2 star... i wasn't able to link it today but it felt doable and i will get back on it... Dec 24, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
I finally sent this thing so I figure I will add to the discussion I started above.
I have climbed around 20 5.13s at rumney from 13a to 13d and this one took me more than twice the effort (time and # of tries) than any other. I wouldn't say it is harder than others of the grade but it is very style and strength specific. The only place to train for this kind of route at rumney is this cliff.

I am a climber that depends of technique above all else and the Monkey requires a bit (a lot) of power. All in all I felt the boulder start was v9 and the second half was 11+... It is pretty well established as a 13b so I will accept that and try to get stronger. Nov 16, 2016