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Routes in Monsters from the Id

Abominable Snowman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boogieman , The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cosmic Monsters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doctor No S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Feeding Frenzy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heavenly Monsters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Demon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Crossing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Source of Madness S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steady Slobbin' S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Stone Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Zombie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith, '90s
Page Views: 2,592 total, 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Dec 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This is the short very powerful route that follows the pretty crack/flake on the right side of the cliff just before you get to the chimney of White Zombie (5.12d).

Right off the ground you are in the business with a strong and very crimpy move up and left to a decent pod. From here you move up slightly to some pretty good holds but on this steep wall they are no picnic. Then you may make use of holds out left but keeping your feet on is a challenge. A few more hard moves gets you the prize hold a nice jug a bit more than half way up. After a quick shake head out right on good holds for a more moderate but still super steep finish.

I've climbed on the route but haven't figured all of the moves so if you have specific beta please share it.

Location

Right of Stone Monkeys (5.13b) and left of White Zombie (5.12d).

Protection

4 bolts to anchor.
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I like how smooth he is moving, almost static, going through the moves from the undercling, that I am remembering as desperate pops. Feb 12, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Kevin Jorgeson bouldering Feeding Frenzy at Nor'Easter '08. +
State Radio serenading the crowd who came out in the rain.

Be sure to watch it in High Quality!!
youtube.com/watch?v=xCFG-d6… May 18, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It has been years, but I think I used the undercling out left and did a big step through, then more dead points. The second move was the crux for me. I linked from a hang there to the top, but was never able to latch the funky thumb catch. I think it is a great route because you have to use so much body tension to maintain your precision and there can't be any hesitation in your moves.

I am really surprised that no one has done the sit down start..very hard, but I would think one of the strong boulderers would snap it off. Jan 3, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
how about beta... i was a little confused on how best to use the holds out left... mostly footwork stuff... i thought the crimps were sharp but i thought they felt pretty solid... i don't think the first move will be the crux for me... Dec 28, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Not only is it crimpy, but it's also really sharp. I blew off one of those crimps and got a huge flapper. This thing was gigantic--there was so much skin torn off my finger that it looked like it could have been a pretty good meal.

Anyway, I lowered to the ground, on the verge of tears from all the pain, and sat at the base, bleeding and whimpering for a while. I left a big puddle of blood at the base. We went back and climbed at Monsters the next day, and I was expecting to see evidence from my bloodletting from the previous day. When I went over to the base of the route, I saw that all of the blood was gone. Some animal must have lapped it up during the night. I try to remember this when I think of trying the route again. Dec 28, 2007
James Otey   NH
This route is hideously crimpy... Dec 28, 2007