Cosmic Monsters
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.1 from 75 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Dave Quinn, 11/94 |
Page Views: | 4,661 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 24, 2007 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.
Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).
A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.
youtube.com/watch?v=rk7Pnyp…
Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).
A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.
youtube.com/watch?v=rk7Pnyp…
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