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Routes in Monsters from the Id

Abominable Snowman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boogieman , The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cosmic Monsters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doctor No S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Feeding Frenzy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heavenly Monsters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Demon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Crossing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Source of Madness S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steady Slobbin' S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Stone Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Zombie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Quinn, 11/94
Page Views: 2,884 total, 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.

Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).

A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.

Location

The bolt line just left of the "V" groove of Heaven (5.11a)....

Protection

4 bolts to anchor.
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
When Dave first climbed, instead of making "a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it" at the 2nd bolt.. he basically just went straight up, using a hold left of the bulge. The Team Tough video had a caption that said "(before the hold broke)" so maybe that was a factor. Fun history... if you want to consider it that. :) Apr 1, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Nice! i have been doing it that way lately too! wondered if anyone else did it that way...
I love high feet... i only discovered the campus/dyno way because the foot was covered in ice and i still wanted to climb it haha Jul 9, 2014
if getting a high right foot feels awkward for the crux, i recommend dynoing from the crimps with your left foot on the slab near the undercling and hit the jug. Jul 7, 2014
i find that the obvious handjam post crux is a faux amis...the sharp two finger pocket above saved me Nov 8, 2012
nice that this conversation is a year old and those two draws are still there today Aug 28, 2012
S. Neoh  
There might also be a random project draw on Heaven (in addition to the fixed ones it shares with a .14 route - All Day Slacker?). Sep 19, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the theory i came up with was that someone left those to warm up on the link up Heavenly Monsters but im not really sure... that would count as fixing draws on a 5.11 which i guess we arent supposed to do... Sep 18, 2011
S. Neoh  
Ran out of time and too buggy to get on this one today. Noticed draws on the last two bolts. Why? Did someone make off with someone else's lower project draw? Sep 18, 2011
James Otey
NH
  5.12a
James Otey   NH
  5.12a
I have different beta for the crux as well. I get both the crimps you throw from, but instead of hucking, I get a high right foot and lockoff on the right crimp, crossing over to the jug statically. Oct 21, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
one of my smaller friends did the boulder problem crux really cool the other day... instead of lunging to the right hand hold she went up left in to an indistinct left hand hold in the crack then went all static out to the good hold.... might be harder than v4 but it was really smooth.... best shorty beta ive seen on it... Oct 21, 2010
S. Neoh  
Being small in size, getting onto the 1st ledge was not too bad for me but I got soundly whooped by the boulder problem crux shortly thereafter. Do I just need to "go big" to the obvious right hold off the small crimps in front of me? I remember the move being awkward and extremely frustrating for me. "V4? Somehow I do not think so!" was going thru my mind over and over again .... Oct 20, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Nice video, Lee. Reminds me how awkward getting up onto that first ledge is, haha. Oct 20, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just added a video link if you are interested... Oct 19, 2010