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Routes in Monsters from the Id

Abominable Snowman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boogieman , The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cosmic Monsters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doctor No S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Feeding Frenzy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heavenly Monsters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Demon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Crossing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Source of Madness S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steady Slobbin' S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Stone Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Triskaidekaphobia S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Zombie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Jerry Handren 1993
Page Views: 4,308 total, 33/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A truly classic climb on a system of cracks and features out a relentlessly steep wall and a roof. Once considered a "sport" route due to the fixed trad gear that many thought would always remain. In the last few years it has not had fixed gear and so has seen much fewer ascents.

Perhaps the only downfall to the line is that it is plagued by wetness, this route would see much more climbing if it dried out more often. When it does dry, it is a must climb for anyone who can keep up with this powerful, interesting route that requires some crazy beta. From the double knee-bar start,
to a foot-cam over your head and much more, this Journey is bound to keep you on your toes.

P.S. some folks like to climb it like a crack while others go at it like a powerful burl-fest either way it is likely to kick your ass for a while. So, play it to your strengths.

Location

Look for the line of fixed gear in the crack.... That's the one....

Protection

Fixed trad gear with draws in place....
Stick clip the first piece....

Photos

Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
I saw that yesterday, it probably could not be removed by the ethical cleaners. Perhaps this is not so bad as it leaves a positive, "Jesus Nut" to start with. I definitely plan on aiding this once I pick up a chest harness that fits. Jul 31, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
as of last week there was only 1 fixed nut and it was right off the ground... Jul 30, 2011
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
According to the new guidebook, "Due to bombproof stopper placements, it is a popular practice clean-aid climb (C1). If you do aid the climb, please leave the fixed nuts in place for the 'free' climbers to hang from" (p. 121). Jul 29, 2011
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
sweet! thanks jay! Feb 16, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13a
Mike, It's funny how standards evolve.

As for aiding the route, I don't think it would be a problem. Of course, don't pound any pins. If you aid it clean on nuts and cams, no one should have a problem with it. You could check it out for your future free ascent. Feb 16, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
ok so i was reading the old rumney guide that jay put up on the forum. i came across this route ( one of only 2 routes on this wall at the time!) any ways this was, back then, only aided! and i the caption read.... aid up the 120 degree crack could this be a future 5.14? ..... first i thought that was great! i love seeing how climbing has come so far! second does any one think i would be frowned apon/scolded/yelled at for aiding JTMP? lol =) Feb 16, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
id guess its wet but im not sure... its usually wet when things are wet... Aug 20, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
bummer... do have any idea weather its dry or not at the moment? Aug 19, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
it takes a handful of nuts and or small cams... last i looked there was fixed gear up again... Aug 19, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
What gear does this route take? Aug 18, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
oh yeah sorry i should have posted this before... i did get my gear back... i decided not to fix gear on it again cause i had other routes i wanted to climb... and didnt feel like playing in the "ethics battle" any more... Mar 8, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Lee--

Did you ever get your gear back? Mar 7, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i hear that my gear was taken by the same person or persons who took the ladder down at waimea, for ethical purposes... as far as the gear goes, as i said before i just want it back... ill keep my ethical opinions to my self... Oct 30, 2007
Ladd    
Bummer man, hope your gear gets returned. Oct 29, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
All of my gear is gone from the route...

if some one took the gear down for ethical purposes thats cool cause i agree that it looks better as a nice clean crack to go at fully trad style... i hope however that the ethics of this person also include getting my gear back to me...

my name is lee hansche and i work at vertical dreams climbing gym in manchester 603-625-6919... i think i had 4or5 nuts and 3or4 draws and a few biners on the route... it all adds up to $$$... Oct 29, 2007
Ladd    
Yeah, it popped when I fell making the 3rd move. Sep 13, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
there used to be a more elaberate set up on the first piece... when i put the gear back in recently i just put another nut in next to the nasty stuck piece just incase... just put the other nut in and go for it... it looked good when i left it... it prolly just got knocked loose from use... Sep 13, 2007
Ladd    
The first placement was two nuts, one has blown out so now there is only one nut for the first piece. The other nut remains dangling from the carabiner. Sep 12, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
the fixed gear was removed from this climb so that folks could lead it while placing gear (i hope some day i can too) as far as i know those who wished to, have sent it... i need to work it so i fixed gear on it today and plan to leave it up for a while so me and anyone who wants can work it with gear in place... if my gear is in the way let me know and i will remove it...

i forgot to bring webbing for the thread that is normally the second clip so right now i have a solid nut in a slightly less perfect location which ill replace with webbing next time im on it...which will be soon... Aug 24, 2007