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Routes in John's Wall

Alberta S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Amazon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulges T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easter Rising S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Aldo to Abbey T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Houston S, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 568 total, 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This left-facing corner is an obvious line on John's.

A bouldery crux at the bottom is unprotected for about 15', or use a stick clip to clip the first bolt of Easter Rising. It looks like the holds are positive, but many are slopers. With a stickclip, this climb is well-protected with no unusual risk. If you don't want to clip the bolt, it's only another foot or two until the first good gear placement: a hand size cam. Might feel hard for its original 5.7 grade.

Location

The obvious left-facing dihedral just to the left of the bolted line Easter Rising and right of the bolted line Alberta.

Protection

1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts. Preclip the Easter Rising 1st bolt if uncomfortable at the grade.
2-bolt anchor at the top.

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