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Routes in John's Wall

Alberta S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Amazon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulges T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do the Next Right Thing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easter Rising S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Aldo to Abbey T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Houston S, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Guy Syndrome S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: John Joline, ~1980
Page Views: 1,472 total · 11/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Houston S is the rightmost bolted line on John's. It's cleaner than most at John's Wall, and fun climbing.

The start is shared with a mixed bolted/trad line (Amazon). There's a thin crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, which is harder for short people. Angle left on crimpy basalt climbing. The anchor is shared with Easter Rising. Also, rated 5.8 in the old guide.

'Taos Rock' shows a bolted 5.11 variation to this climb, directly climbing the thin face between Houston S and Easter Rising. The lowest bolt on this variation is missing now (not sure how important it is).

Interesting note re: the original name (S, not 5), by JJ below.

Location

This is the rightmost bolted line on John's Wall.

Protection

5(?) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional #0.5 or #0.75 cam or tricam.

Photos

Brett Brotherton
Arvada, CO
Brett Brotherton   Arvada, CO
Did this climb on 12/31/08 wall is climbable on a warm winter day recommend late morning we got there about 1 and sun was starting to go behind other side of canyon. I only recall there being 5 bolts to anchor chains. Crux is definitely between the second and third bolt. Between the third and fourth bolt you can place some gear I used a .5 and .75 camalot in the horizontal cracks a red tricam would probably have been better but it was on the ground. Jan 3, 2009
Re "Houston 5"

The actual name of this route is "The Houston S" ["ess"]. Way back in 1980 or whenever it was, I started up this new route, and Bill Johnson, in conversation from below, used the phrase (in some forgotten context), "...not used to this." I misheard and yelled down something like, "What was that about the Houston S?" -- hence the name. We created a small guidebook to the area and somehow my hand-written "S" became a "5" in later guidebook(s).

-John Joline May 1, 2010
This is a fun climb that kind of shares some bolts with Easter rising. If you want to go to the left most anchor, you probably need some trad gear because there are no bolts near the top, so I just went to the anchor of Easter rising. This is an awesome climb with a few tricky moves. Oct 7, 2018

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