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Routes in John's Wall

Alberta S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Amazon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulges T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do the Next Right Thing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easter Rising S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Aldo to Abbey T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Houston S, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Guy Syndrome S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 515 total · 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This climb takes on the prow above the obvious big black bulge in the middle of the face, right of the obvious overhanging finger crack Bulges. The upper section of this climb is really good.

There are 2 or 3 choices to begin: the bouldery Alberta start (bolt protected 5.10+) is the best one.

After you reach the big ledge, follow the bolt line up the prow. The first bolt is just out of reach; if you bring a #0.75 camalot it is less stressful. The prow is high quality sustained pocket pulling. Stay out of the corner to the right, though it isn't very tempting.

Rated 5.10a in the old guide.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #0.75 camalot is nice to have to get pro in on the ledge before reaching the first bolt off the ledge, but many people will be ok without it.

Photos

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This climb shares the first two bolts and maybe the third bolt with Alberta. This is quite a tricky start, as it is a boulder problem to the first bolt, probably a V3, and then to the next bolt is just a sketchy sequence. Couldn't make it up to the second but it looks fun! Oct 7, 2018

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