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Routes in John's Wall

Alberta S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Amazon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulges T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do the Next Right Thing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easter Rising S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Aldo to Abbey T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Houston S, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Guy Syndrome S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 497 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 22, 2011
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

I thought "Alberta" was a pretty good sport climb, for Johns Wall at least. Some older guides list this as "The Face" at 5.9+, but a 5.9 climber will get his or her butt kicked.

It's a boulder problem to the first bolt (the landing is sandy still some timid leaders might consider stick-clipping). Just before you reach the 2nd bolt is a really weird and unnerving mantle move. After this, head up to the right on small edges & pockets, with the difficulty easing toward the top.

Location

Sport climb, center stage of Johns Wall. Just left of the left-facing corner (Route 66).

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor w/ chains.

Photos

skelldify  
 
Did this one on a hot day, but the start felt way harder than 10+ up to the second bolt. Also it's very unclear if you're supposed to stick to the face or use the arĂȘte, whether or not to use the corner(s), and where to start from.

Several of the bolts are spinners and they're little hangers.

All of this conspired to make this route not that inspiring.

Also, it's nowhere near 70 feet tall. Jul 26, 2015
Josh Ky Dame
The West
  5.10d
Josh Ky Dame   The West
  5.10d
I'd agree with skelldify that the beginning of the route definitely seemed stiffer than 5.10+. I didn't find any spinners on my run up, but was a little surprised to find a 15ft run out near the top! Overall, its definitely a bit odd but the bottom sequencing up to the second bolt is worth 2 stars I'd say; had a good bit of fun figuring that out. Apr 25, 2017
This route shares the first two or three bolts with The Nose 5.10d, which has a tricky bouldery start. After that, it is relatively easy climbing up the arete, and then transitioning over to the corner/chimney. It's your call but I just followed the bolts up. There is a pretty long runout between the 2nd to last bolt and the last bolt so watch out. Oct 7, 2018

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