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Routes in Main Wall - North

Allez Lou T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear Claw T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delayed Gratification T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Sanchez T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Lantern S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Weenie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Impaired Rendition T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Intermission S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Nariz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Life By The Drop S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangina S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Midori Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Zinger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Remission T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Fax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spinous Process S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strong Arm T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Submission S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Transmission T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterfall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Punks On Skateboards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Punks on Dope T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: M. Rangel
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Crux is passing the roof, hard to find hold and difficult right hand with scummy feet over roof.
Second crux is getting past the first bolt above the upper ledge.

Location

At left end of north-facing Rainbow Wall, just left of Remission's wide crack. Look for a 4' roof @ 20' off the ground.

Protection

bolts, rap anchor or continue to top via other routes.

Photos

At the ledge about half way up the bolt is an exciting clip above a ledge. My tall partner had no problem but I was happy to put the finger sized cams I didn't use at the start in a crack at the ledge. The next bolt is fifteen feet down so if you were to pop off clipping and bounce of the ledge you would take a 30-40 footer. if you are 5' 10" or so you might be able to clip it from the ledge. Upper wall is great! Jun 29, 2015
mark Hofmeister
Flagstaff,Az
 
mark Hofmeister   Flagstaff,Az
 
Awesome climb! Last bolt is a bit reachy and i went back right and not left under chains which was still hard. Also potential fall on upper deck if you dont make the 2nd to last bolt. ouch. But i would do this climb again! Awesome route! Oct 29, 2013
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c/d
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c/d
Colonel; The last bolt is reachable if you lean right before moving up to the jug that is a little further out left, although it is still a little reachy. Great line, sustained nature of the climb was the crux for me. May 5, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Anybody else find that last bolt hard as the dickens to clip? It looks like many leave it unclipped and solo out left? Maybe it's just me... Jun 7, 2010