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Routes in Main Wall - North

Allez Lou T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear Claw T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delayed Gratification T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Sanchez T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Lantern S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Weenie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Impaired Rendition T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Intermission S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Nariz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Life By The Drop S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangina S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Midori Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Zinger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Remission T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Fax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spinous Process S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strong Arm T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Submission S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Transmission T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterfall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Punks On Skateboards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Punks on Dope T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Eric Foster
Page Views: 473 total · 6/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start is the same as "White Punks on Dope" and instead of moving to the right at the top of the easy corner continue strait up bolted face through delicate thin face moves. Anchors are the same as Allez Lou.

Location

Right Of Allez Lou.

Protection

A couple of cams from .75-3. 4 Bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
Fun addition to the area - very thoughtful movement and hard to read sequences on headwall. I thought clipping the first bolt was a little awkward/committing. be careful of loose blocks at the top of the corner. Apr 23, 2012
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
I left a space on the bolting higher up where it was easier, did you think that it was ok? I tried to place the bolts in the best place I could. I would agree the moves are tricky. Glad you liked it.

Eric Apr 23, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
The face is nicely bolted, with gear available between bolts at the top. I felt like it was right at my onsight limit and didn't stress about the pro anywhere.

First bolt felt kind of reachy, especially since I am tall, but I could easily have just botched that sequence. Apr 23, 2012
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Ok, cool. Thanks for the feedback man! Apr 23, 2012
um. I would have to see the line, but it sounds a bit like this "new" climb shares some of the same terrain as "Sampson and Delilah", a top rope climb that manuel, laurel, and I did in 2005. Apr 25, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
This is a good climb. The bottom section, shared with "White Punks on Dope" is an interesting trad section for Iso and I had the same reaction to the first bolt as Roman did -- except, I don't have his reach and so getting that bolt clipped was quite a stretch! Granted, was the end of a good day and so perhaps the tricky face moves seemed harder than they needed to be -- would still rate this solid 10 or 10+ for Iso and the 2 stars rather than 3 is for the chunky lower trad section. Nice addition and shall do White Punks next time when there's no storm coming in. Sep 21, 2014
Colin Kubarych
Phoenix, AZ
Colin Kubarych   Phoenix, AZ
I'm going to be 3 years late in my vote, but I'd say that first bolt is just a bit too high. The possibility of blowing the clip is fairly real and the fall into the corner not that pretty. If the sketchy blocks at the top of the dihedral were more solid, I'd say the clip is fine but any gear placed around those blocks should be considered suspect.

With all that said, the climbing on the headwall above to corner is some of the finest edging I've done at ISO. Aug 16, 2015
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Sounds like it's a consensus that the first bolt is too reachy. I'll try and get out there and see if I can't move the bolt to a better spot. Might be a bit before I make it out there though so if anyone is motivated you have my approval to move it to a better spot. May 19, 2018

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