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Routes in Main Wall - North

Allez Lou T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear Claw T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delayed Gratification T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Sanchez T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Lantern S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Weenie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Impaired Rendition T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Intermission S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Nariz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Life By The Drop S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangina S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Midori Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Red Zinger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Remission T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Fax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Play T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spinous Process S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strong Arm T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Submission S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Transmission T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterfall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Punks On Skateboards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Punks on Dope T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Eric Foster
Page Views: 887 total, 9/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Oct 16, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Starts in the corner crack to the right of Allez Lou. Climb to the top of corner crack and traverse right to where there is a thin crack that takes gear from >.3-.75 BD. This section is essentially face climbing with good traditional protection. After the crack ends continue up a now bolted face through a couple harder moves to the anchor. (There are 2 bolts for the anchor but there are currently no quicklinks for rappelling, should be up soon. Climb up and left to Allez Lou for lowering or rappelling)

Location

This route shares the start of Delayed Gratification and is one of the furthest to the right on the north main wall. Right of Allez Lou.

Protection

One of each .3-.75. One #3 for down low. Three bolts on face to two bolt anchor.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10d
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10d
Accidentally dislodged a mini-fridge sized block just above the starting dihedral, where WPoD and Delayed Grat. separate. A couple of sizable blocks are loose and remained. To much action below at the time to clean off, but relatively easy to navigate around. Tread carefully through this section.

Still no chains -- didn't see the above comments until I was out there or I would've brought some. Left 2 painted leaver biners on the anchor bolts. Please don't take them. May 21, 2017
NC Rock Climber
The Oven, AKA Phoenix
 
NC Rock Climber   The Oven, AKA Phoenix
 
Did this today, and was amazed at how little traffic it appears to get (there was no chalk other than mine and my partner's on this route). The trad section at the bottom goes at 5.9 and takes great gear. The upper section is well bolted and the crux is done with a bolt at your knees. It is a fun climb!

There are no chains at the top bolts. I left two old (but perfectly safe) carabiners on the anchor bolts. Please, either leave the carabiners or add some chains to the anchors. Apr 23, 2014
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Bolts are in and the route is well protected now. I downgraded the route, not as hard as I once thought it was back in the day when the upper section didn't have good protection. I will have to look in your guide again to see if it is accurate for where the climb goes but in general I think it shows it well as I remember. Mar 10, 2012
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
 
Bolts will be up tomorrow (March 10th 2012). I will update the info for pro once I am done. Mar 10, 2012