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Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge

Chick Floater V6 7A
Chick Power V7 7A+
Cupcake V4 6B
Don't Tell Mom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Floater aka Center Route V5 6C
Heinous Gayness V4 6B
Left El Jeffe V6 7A
Man Overboard V3 6A
Pungase V8- 7B
Smoker's Paradise Project V9+ 7C
Southeast Arete V1 5
Trail Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Boulder
FA: Jeff Russell
Page Views: 3,846 total · 30/month
Shared By: Ben Snyder on Mar 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details


Climb the arete facing the main trail to a good jug ~12 feet up. It was given V8, but it felt quite soft. It is probably the best problem at the valley.




F.A - Jeff Russell. Mar 27, 2008
Is the standard line a sit start or a stand start? The sit does seem to add a crux that is equally difficult, if not more difficult that the crux to the upper section if it is a stand start normally. Thanks! Nov 28, 2009
Jerad Friedrichs
Colorado Springs
Jerad Friedrichs   Colorado Springs
I usually do a sit start. Sep 23, 2010
8a consensus is V8.... I can't decide. Definitely has 2 cruxes now that the the original toe is broken. Oct 26, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
The 8a consensus is V8, cuz people like to beef-up their score cards.... Oct 27, 2010
Good point. I still feel it's harder than other 7s I've done...I'll stick with 8-. Oct 27, 2010
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
Is a top out possible on this problem? May 22, 2011
You can top out after the bucket if you want. Its probably 5.11 slab climbing. Apparently the FAist dropped from the jug, so if you get there it qualifies as a send. I personally didnt attempt the death choss after the jug, Ive seen too many breakages down low on this problem to risk it. May 24, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
When we went out on this today, I got stomped! My wingspan wasn't quite enough to get the compression in the beginning. Two other guys that did it both topped it out. They thought that it was at most soft V8 to the hueco jug, then from there adding the top out V9?

Still, cool problem if my arms were longer or if I was just stronger. May 24, 2011
Erik N
Boulder, CO
Erik N   Boulder, CO
Pungase is harder than any V8 in Boulder. You Springs climbers are just beasts. Apr 7, 2013

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