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Areas in Ute Valley Park

North Side 0 / 0 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
South Side Area 0 / 1 / 2 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38
V-Naughts 0 / 0 / 0 / 33 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Warm-Up Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs offers some limited but quality sandstone bouldering and is great for days when you want to stay close to town and close to the ground. I wouldn't classify it as a destination area by any means, but if you are in town it can be worth checking out for a quick pump.

P.S. If you do visit, please try to keep the place clean. Be a good steward and pack it out to the trash cans.

Getting There

From I-25 take exit 146 for Garden of the Gods Road. Drive west approximately 1.1 miles and turn right onto Centennial Boulevard. After 1.4 miles turn right onto Mule Deer Drive. Follow Mule Deer past Pinon Valley Park and turn left onto Pinon Park Drive. Pinon Park deadends at a gate, park along the street here and walk up the dirt road. After about 100m you will be at the boulders.

94 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ute Valley Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 31
Northwest Arete
Boulder
V1 5
 29
The Rail
Boulder
V1 5
 20
Thing Behind The Wedge aka The Hangbo…
Boulder
V2 5+
 49
The Wave
Boulder
V2 5+
 21
Unknown Double Dyno
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 3
Punjabi by Nature
Boulder
V4 6B
 50
Wedgie aka The Cube Problem
Boulder
V5 6C
 46
Floater aka Center Route
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Atomic Wedgie
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 8
Rain Dance
Boulder
V6- 7A
 27
Overhanging Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
 8
The Alive Dyno
Boulder
V6 7A
 10
Chick Floater
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Chick Power
Boulder
V8- 7B
 16
Pungase
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northwest Arete S Side Area > Cube Boulder
 31
V1 5 Boulder
The Rail S Side Area > Main Wall
 29
V1 5 Boulder
Thing Behind The Wedge aka… S Side Area > Main Wall
 20
V1 5 Boulder
The Wave S Side Area > Wave Boulder
 49
V2 5+ Boulder
Unknown Double Dyno S Side Area > Main Wall
 21
V2 5+ Boulder
Punjabi by Nature N Side > Centennial/Vindicator
 3
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Wedgie aka The Cube Problem S Side Area > Cube Boulder
 50
V4 6B Boulder
Floater aka Center Route S Side Area > Main Boulder aka The…
 46
V5 6C Boulder
Atomic Wedgie S Side Area > Cube Boulder
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Rain Dance S Side Area > Cube Boulder
 8
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Overhanging Arete S Side Area > Main Wall
 27
V6- 7A Boulder
The Alive Dyno S Side Area > Main Wall
 8
V6 7A Boulder
Chick Floater S Side Area > Main Boulder aka The…
 10
V6 7A Boulder
Chick Power S Side Area > Main Boulder aka The…
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Pungase S Side Area > Main Boulder aka The…
 16
V8- 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Ute Valley Park »

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
D Argyle
Green Mountain Falls, CO
D Argyle   Green Mountain Falls, CO
Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus.
If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due. Jan 31, 2006
This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.

-D Mar 6, 2006
Ben Snyder
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Ben Snyder   CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it... Apr 8, 2008
Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says. Apr 15, 2008
Does any one know what the traverse is rated on the main wall? and also the route on the south side of the big boulder going up the arette to the left of floater? It was a sit start with some nice heel hooks. Sep 22, 2011
Ute Valley rock quality is generally poor, but it is an awesome playground, circuit area, or place to learn bouldering. Its location, lack of access issues (so far), and fun problems makes it a popular place these days for the Colorado Springs area. Please be respectful, pick up trash if you see it (you will), and have fun! Nov 7, 2011
I started bouldering at Ute Valley in the early eighties and used the area primarily for training. Ute is great for circuit bouldering. Before gyms I used to do a twelve problem session there a couple of times a week. Several were eliminates and traverses not included in this guide. Inconsistent rock quality but very interesting and fun terrain. It's good to see how popular the area has become. Jan 19, 2013
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
Decided to drop by this place for some quick bouldering while staying in the Springs for a short stint, and I loved it. Though there is poor rock quality in many places, what is established is super solid and safe. Every problem I did from the warm-ups to the projects were a lot of fun, cool huecos and gymnastic movements abound here. I had low expectations but came away feeling like I hit a gem as far as mid-city bouldering goes. Great place to satisfy any instant needs to climb you have. May 25, 2015
Dan Cooksey
Seattle, WA
Dan Cooksey   Seattle, WA
I located a solo five ten climbing shoe near the Tide Boulder today (1/18/2015). If it is yours or you know who owns it, feel free to email me drcooksey@gmail.com. Jan 18, 2016

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