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Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge

Chick Floater V6 7A
Chick Power V7 7A+
Cupcake V4 6B
Don't Tell Mom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Floater aka Center Route V5 6C
Heinous Gayness V4 6B
Left El Jeffe V6 7A
Pungase V8- 7B
Smoker's Paradise Project V9+ 7C
Southeast Arete V1 5
Trail Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,427 total, 44/month
Shared By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details


This is the obvious line up the middle of the main boulder's south face. Get to the sloper and then up to a knob to top out. Landing is good.


Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
This route would be classic anywhere. Super fun, my friend is 5'7" and can stick the jump with about the same effort as myself (5'11"), so no excuses! The feet are all there. May 25, 2015
Zane Dordai  
Though I never really fell in love with Ute Valley, this problem is super classic. It felt like very solid V5 from what I know.

Beta spoiler alert: I used the chick, power crimp out right for my right hand to perch on a far, high, and good right foot which freed my right hand to grab the good sidepull pinch. Felt 5 to me that way. The first move, though very big, just takes some dialing in if you have trouble on big moves. Aug 2, 2012
Asheville, NC
Lucas   Asheville, NC
This would be a solid V5 anywhere in the country. Awesome problem, the style of it kinda reminds me of Serengeti in Bishop. Jun 20, 2011
Nice job, Culver...getting strong, man!! Jun 4, 2011
Colorado Springs, CO
Culver   Colorado Springs, CO
Finally sent this a couple days ago! Probably my favorite problem in this area now that I can stick more than just the first move. Jun 4, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
Got on this today, I am pretty short 5'8" with a +1 A.I. So that move to the sloper is pretty big for me, and till I dialed it was very low percentage.

This took me quite some time to send even though it is definitely not my style.

To me it felt more like a V6. May 24, 2011
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
David Hertel   Haines, Alaska
It seems like the consensus is to approach the sloper from the right side and sort of hook the bump with the left hand, but I found that way to be an incredible stretch I can barely make. I prefer to start with a pinch in the hueco on the left side and walk my hands across the sloping rail to grab the bloc. The only problem with this beta is the feet suck and it's hard to stay on without a toe hook. If you use this beta, be prepared to dyno to the chicken head from the bloc with low feet. Dec 27, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I've seen people bump off that hold, I don't use it. I don't think it changes the rating significantly. Oct 25, 2010
Bob Robinson
Lone Tree, Colorado
Bob Robinson   Lone Tree, Colorado
This one feels stout. Are people bumping from the good ledge from "Chick Power" before heading to the sidepull, or just cranking through? Oct 25, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
HAAARRRD. Took me forever to get. Cool problem though. I did the other V4s at Ute within a few days, while this took me a few months so I would say this is solid V5. Jul 29, 2009
colorado springs co
loc   colorado springs co
My fav problem in this wall. Jul 28, 2009
Michael West
Enterprise, AL
Michael West   Enterprise, AL
Getting to the sloper is way harder for shorter people. Jun 8, 2008