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Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge

Chick Floater V6 7A
Chick Power V7 7A+
Cupcake V4 6B
Don't Tell Mom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Floater aka Center Route V5 6C
Heinous Gayness V4 6B
Left El Jeffe V6 7A
Pungase V8- 7B
Smoker's Paradise Project V9+ 7C
Southeast Arete V1 5
Trail Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Nathanael Hansen/Jeff Russell
Page Views: 3,722 total, 32/month
Shared By: Nathanael Hansen on May 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This line is just to the right of Floater. Start in the higher pod and go right onto a bomber crimper, then match on a single-pad edge before hucking for the lip. So classic. Once the linkup from Pungase is complete, this would be a great finish!

Jeff and I can't remember who got it first, since the upper crimp has broken a few times in between ascents....

Photos

JasonT
 
JasonT  
 
Okay, so I sent the "variation" using the far right crimp yesterday after about 7 goes, and it is in no way equally as hard as the original dyno version (which I still feel to be about V9). The version where you use the crimp out right felt about V7, and although you still have to dyno, it is in no way as hard as the direct line.

Props to anyone who has sent this thing the original way, because it is burly for sure. Apr 3, 2012
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V8+
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V8+
Thanks for the description, Nathan. I hadn't sent Chick Power since the early 2000-2002-ish time frame after Ric took me to Ute for the first time. The next time I went back, after moving from CO, was 2008, and I just remembered the match hold being a little more positive. Nice video btw. Nov 20, 2011
Nathanael Hansen
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Nathanael Hansen   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I might as well chime in:
I know Ric Geiman (who silently got the FAs on most everything at the Valley) did not have the FA on Chick Power. Jeff and I asked him at a comp there after we completed it.

And it's called Chick Power (not Sheik Power or anything like that), because Jeff's closest attempts always came when he brought his girlfriends there.

When Jeff and I were working Chick Power as a project, there was no other method we WANTED to do other than the big throw. Send it however you want, intermediates, crazy-high heel hooks, but you won't ever do a more fun and satisfying method than dynoing for that lip!
(and remember, you're not throwing for any chickenheads up there - it's a sweet rounded edge you catch)

As for breakage, that's gotten exaggerated over the years. The crimp you throw from was never "big", but it did crumble a bit after the original FA (most likely because it's used as a foothold, and hey... it's Ute Valley). Having done it before and after breakage, I don't notice a huge difference....

I love Ute Valley, and I LOVE this problem.

Here's a beta video from my neglected blog (apparently made when I was feeling quite old but appreciative of what really matters)
misterthan.blogspot.com/200… Nov 7, 2011
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
  V8+
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
  V8+
Oh, I didn't know the hold broken and became smaller, I thought something completely broke off. Yeah, I have done it both ways, and I don't think it takes away from the difficulty either way. Nov 3, 2011
JasonT
 
JasonT  
 
I am pretty sure this has always been a dyno, the crimp ledge (that you dyno from now) did break and was just a bit larger when it was considered a V7 (where no intermediates were needed due to the large nature of the jug one was throwing from). That tends to be the word on the streets anyways. Nov 1, 2011
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
  V8+
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
  V8+
Jason, yes and no, the dyno is very hard and is classic for this climb, but at the same time, the intermediate holds are on that face. In my opinion, contrived problems are completely worthless. If the holds are there, they can be used. Also, a hold did break off of this, so the original Chick Power was not a dyno. Nov 1, 2011
JasonT
 
JasonT  
 
I think that if you do not go full on dyno from the matched crimp ledge, then you have not done "Chick Power" if you use intermediates and whatnot, the grade lessens and should be ticked as "Chick Power variant" or something. I'm not saying its not still hard...but that dyno is damn hard.

Thoughts? Sep 26, 2011
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
  V8+
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
  V8+
V8+ for sure. Jun 7, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
I was on this today with two different friends, both of them were on this route and they seemed to think that the route was in the V8+ or V9 range. And one of them specializes in dynos. May 24, 2011
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V8+
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V8+
A hold has broken, and it is probably V8...and if I am not mistaken, Ric Geiman had the FA on this. Dec 23, 2008
Ben Snyder
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Ben Snyder   CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
This climb is much harder than V6 IMO. Consensus has placed it more in the V9 range I believe. I've climbed on it recently and it certainly isn't V6 or V7 or even V8 at this point. Breakage? Who knows. Cool climb though. May 24, 2008