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Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge

Chick Floater V6 7A
Chick Power V7 7A+
Cupcake V4 6B
Don't Tell Mom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Floater aka Center Route V5 6C
Heinous Gayness V4 6B
Left El Jeffe V6 7A
Pungase V8- 7B
Smoker's Paradise Project V9+ 7C
Southeast Arete V0 4
Trail Route S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Jeremy Finnegan, 2009
Page Views: 2,109 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ben Snyder on Apr 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details


On the arete facing the main trail: start standing with the left hand on a good rounded sidepull at chest height and a right hand on/around the arrete. Climb up and left with difficulty (and some technical trickery) to a good jug, through the 'hole' created by the pungase and cube boulders, and then to a good no-hands rest on the wide ledge below Center Route, which this problem finishes on.

Starting as for Pungase (sit) would add some difficulty, but not too much else (aesthetically speaking) to this already interesting line. Ditto finishing on Sheik Power (which would add considerable difficulty)...


A couple pads.


Jeremy Finnegan  
Nice, Max. I think that marks like the 4th or 5th time that section has broke, lol. Jun 9, 2011
I ripped a giant chunk off the left hand crimp while matching--revealing a small (and hollow) but good edge about four inches lower. Temporarily easier now, maybe hard V8/9--although this hold will surely break sometime in the near future and most likely bump the grade back up.... May 19, 2011
Ben Snyder
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Ben Snyder   CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Congrats on the FA! Great job - I will change the grade to what you suggested (as mine was only a guess as to what it might be once completed). What beta did you use? Got a name yet? Once again, awesome! Dec 1, 2009
Jeremy Finnegan  
FA ascents get to the right to name and grade the problem right, so I am thinking off leaving it as the linkage, will update later though. Cool problem but maybe not worth the damage to the rock inflicted though in the area. Aug 24, 2009