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Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge

Chick Floater V6 7A
Chick Power V7 7A+
Cupcake V4 6B
Don't Tell Mom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Floater aka Center Route V5 6C
Heinous Gayness V4 6B
Left El Jeffe V6 7A
Pungase V8- 7B
Smoker's Paradise Project V9+ 7C
Southeast Arete V0 4
Trail Route S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR
FA: Ric Gieman
Page Views: 2,346 total, 16/month
Shared By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Start on the arete on the northeast side of the main boulder, and climb up the left side of the west face. A fun, little, dynamic move will get you to a nice pocket. This climb has been bouldered/solo'ed, but most would find it prudent to set up a TR using the anchor bolts up top.

Location

Start on the arete on the northeast side of the main boulder and climb up the left side of the west face.

Protection

You can boulder/solo this or toprope it. There are anchor bolts up top.

Photos

One of the anchors on top of the main boulder moves. Check it out, I wouldn't trust it. Might just need some tightening with a wrench.... Oct 1, 2013
mlloyd
denver
 
mlloyd   denver
 
I bouldered/soloed this after inspecting it once on toprope. I think it's solid 5.11. A good (and heady) route that probably deserves more toprope traffic than it gets. The crux comes at about 25 feet, give or take. Nov 2, 2008
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
No. Trail Route follows the bolts up the arete that faces the road (only bolts on the rock). Don't Tell Mom is a high-ball boulder problem that starts a few feet to the right of Trail Route and climbs the face up to the obvious hueco, which requires a dyno about 15-20 feet off the deck. The toprope anchors mentioned in this post are the same anchors used at the top of Trail Route. If you choose to high-ball it, get ready for a long ride down if you don't stick the dyno. Aug 22, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Isn't this the same route as "Trail Route." This post contains the correct name and grade, but I was just wondering if there was one sport route at Ute that I was unaware of. Aug 20, 2008
willo schubarth
Colorado Springs, CO
willo schubarth   Colorado Springs, CO
FA: Ric Gieman. Aug 20, 2008