Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Tornado Alley
|Flying Cows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Fujimata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Goodbye Doublewide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Gustnado S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|It Sounded Like a Train S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Never Saw it Coming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Revenge of the Little Fingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rolling Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Spidergrind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Swept Away S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Terror in the Trailerpark S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Texas Twister S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Unknown aka Left of Black Streak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||409 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Feb 25, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
DescriptionThis fine route is one of the better hard lines at Tornado Alley, thanks to its sustained nature. There is no really distinct crux, but several sections that will keep your attention until the very end. A scary sequence getting to the clipping stance for the second bolt detracts somewhat. Stick-clipping this bolt is recommended if you have a long enough pole.
Begin in the wash or traverse out left from the end of the ledge. After clipping the first bolt, the line heads left into the large huecos of "Fujimata" before busting back right with the help of a sharp but deep two-finger pocket. A good crimp sets you up for a short dyno to the large jug past the second bolt. A fall before clipping this bolt would not be pretty.
Head up for ten feet, then traverse left as you surmount the roof with more dynamic moves. A mediocre rest is possible over the roof. Head up for 15 feet before a traverse back right and more good holds lead to the chains.