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Routes in Tornado Alley

Flying Cows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fujimata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodbye Doublewide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gustnado S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Sounded Like a Train S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Saw it Coming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Revenge of the Little Fingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rolling Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spidergrind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Terror in the Trailerpark S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Twister S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown aka Left of Black Streak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Gogas?
Page Views: 409 total, 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 25, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

This fine route is one of the better hard lines at Tornado Alley, thanks to its sustained nature. There is no really distinct crux, but several sections that will keep your attention until the very end. A scary sequence getting to the clipping stance for the second bolt detracts somewhat. Stick-clipping this bolt is recommended if you have a long enough pole.

Begin in the wash or traverse out left from the end of the ledge. After clipping the first bolt, the line heads left into the large huecos of "Fujimata" before busting back right with the help of a sharp but deep two-finger pocket. A good crimp sets you up for a short dyno to the large jug past the second bolt. A fall before clipping this bolt would not be pretty.

Head up for ten feet, then traverse left as you surmount the roof with more dynamic moves. A mediocre rest is possible over the roof. Head up for 15 feet before a traverse back right and more good holds lead to the chains.

Location

First bolted route right of "Fujimata". This route is not shown on the photo topo. Its located half-way between Route # 9 and Route # 10 on the photo topo.

Protection

Bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Watched Gogas put this route up back in 2005 day before the canyon flooded. Jul 1, 2013
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
I was able to get the second bolt clipped from the large Huecos, it was a bit of a stretch, but helped my piece of mind for the strenuous moves in that area. Jan 21, 2013