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Routes in Tornado Alley

Flying Cows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fujimata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodbye Doublewide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gustnado S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Sounded Like a Train S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Saw it Coming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Revenge of the Little Fingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rolling Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spidergrind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Terror in the Trailerpark S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Twister S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown aka Left of Black Streak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,287 total, 11/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 29, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Despite the more difficult grade this is probably the best warmup on Tornado Alley. It feels easier than the 5.10's to the left to me. Start up easy rock on good holds thru the first few bolts. Above this the crux hits, requiring some longer pulls and a few smaller holds. Above the crux the difficulty eases, and fun climbing leads to the chains.

Don't let the 5.11- grade deter you from getting on this line as it's the best moderate on the wall.

Location

Route #5 on Monomaniac's topos. Third route to the right of the prominent arete Texas Twister on the left side of Tornado Alley

Shown as "Revenge of the Little Fingers" on Monomaniac's topos and the old "line" topos.

Protection

Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Being one of the better routes in the canyon, this deserves a far more expansive and vivid route description. Long reach crux and spiders isn't exactly saying much. Feb 29, 2016
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Another one of the must do .11's. in the canyon - Unknown Beer (4) and Cutter being the others (I think Shakka might be on that list too but I didn't get on it) Nov 28, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
My favorite of the 3 on the left wall. This one is more sustained & less cruxy than the other two. I thought the crux on this was more powerful, but less devious, than the rte to the left. Feb 25, 2008