Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,599 total · 12/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 29, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Despite the more difficult grade this is probably the best warmup on Tornado Alley. It feels easier than the 5.10's to the left to me. Start up easy rock on good holds thru the first few bolts. Above this the crux hits, requiring some longer pulls and a few smaller holds. Above the crux the difficulty eases, and fun climbing leads to the chains.

Don't let the 5.11- grade deter you from getting on this line as it's the best moderate on the wall.

Location

Route #5 on Monomaniac's topos. Third route to the right of the prominent arete Texas Twister on the left side of Tornado Alley

Shown as "Revenge of the Little Fingers" on Monomaniac's topos and the old "line" topos.

Protection

Bolts to Anchors

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
My favorite of the 3 on the left wall. This one is more sustained & less cruxy than the other two. I thought the crux on this was more powerful, but less devious, than the rte to the left. Feb 25, 2008
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Another one of the must do .11's. in the canyon - Unknown Beer (4) and Cutter being the others (I think Shakka might be on that list too but I didn't get on it) Nov 28, 2012
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.11a
Being one of the better routes in the canyon, this deserves a far more expansive and vivid route description. Long reach crux and spiders isn't exactly saying much. Feb 29, 2016
Jason Olavesen
  5.11a
Jason Olavesen  
  5.11a
Sustained, stellar, limestone face climbing. Highly Recommended. Jan 30, 2019