Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,919 total · 22/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 23, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

This is a four star endurance fest, while there are really no hard moves, the pump builds for the wild finish.

Start up easy steep ground to even steeper ground. Rest whenever possible (when you're not pulling a roof) and stay psyched for the crux finish, for me it was a wild dyno for what I hoped was a good hold next to the anchors. While the individual move was probably no harder than V1, you're incredibly pumped at this point.

Edit 5/2015: Climbed this again, and agree with the 12a consensus. Grade has been updated.

Location

On the right side of Tornado Alley, look for where the rock begins to curve away from the streambed. Route #13 on Monomaniac's topos. Between an unknown 10a and "Goodbye Double Wide" 13a.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors right at the lip

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a/b
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a/b
INCREDIBLE!!!
Nuff said! Nov 28, 2012
Noah Kaufman
Fort Collins, CO
 
Noah Kaufman   Fort Collins, CO
 
Amazing steep climb with a ridiculously cool and committing final move to the anchors carrying a pump. Just jugs jugs jugs. Fun warm up/down! Really great swing for the kiddos! Apr 28, 2016
Victoria Edwards
Austin, TX
 
Victoria Edwards   Austin, TX
 
Super fun jug haul Feb 28, 2017