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Routes in Tornado Alley

Flying Cows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fujimata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodbye Doublewide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gustnado S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Sounded Like a Train S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Saw it Coming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Revenge of the Little Fingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rolling Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spidergrind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Terror in the Trailerpark S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Twister S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown aka Left of Black Streak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 848 total, 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 29, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Fun sustained slabby face climbing route. Start up on fairly easy ground past the first two bolts to a nice rest under the roof. Hit the devious crux pulling the roof at the third bolt, (draw can be a reach to hang). From here it stays continuous for the next few bolts before easing off before the anchors.

No spiders this time around, but beware in the past I have had encounters with hoards of Daddy Longlegs in the pockets, bumping up the grade a bit.

This route gets a 10b in the original line topos, but our group decided it was closer 10d.

Location

Route #4 on Monomaniac's topo's. Second route right of the prominent arete Texas Twister.

Protection

Bolts to Anchors
Spider Repellant

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.10d
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10d
No spiders this time around. Great rock and fun moves, with a devious crux around the third bolt that detracts somewhat from the climbing. Feb 25, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.10c
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.10c
Beta: Crux is at the third bolt. Clip the 3rd, and you can step down into a good rest before starting the business. Work back up and pinch a chockstone that sits back in a large pocket with your right. Set Right foot on a nob about 2 feet below, look for the skids. Left hand goes up to a triangle shaped dish. Right hand goes over to some chirps. Bump up your feet. Left hand has a nice three finger pocket. Then fire up to the jugs by the 4th. The rest is 5.8. Feb 15, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.10d
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10d
I found all of the moderate routes I did at LCC to sandbagged (and all the hard routes were soft--how's that for ego stroking!). For the topos I provided, I adjusted the grades (based on my opinion) for the routes I've done, which ufortunately isn't very many. If the topo has a questioin mark by the grade, I definately haven't done it, but there are other routes on the topos that don't have question marks that I also have not done. In that case, I got the grade from someone I talked to who had done the route. Jan 30, 2008