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Routes in Tornado Alley

Flying Cows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fujimata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodbye Doublewide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Gustnado S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It Sounded Like a Train S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Never Saw it Coming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Revenge of the Little Fingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rolling Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spidergrind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Terror in the Trailerpark S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Twister S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown aka Left of Black Streak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 5,270 ft
GPS: 32.236, -104.757 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,599 total, 63/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Tornado Alley is an excellent crag with a large variety of difficulties and styles. The wall offers a number of great lines in the 12+ and above range on steep swells, as well as a few technical slabs, and even one of the canyon's few crack routes.

The wall faces East, so receives morning sun and evening shade. The crag is in the relatively secluded upper half of the canyon, so this can be a good place to go to avoid crowds.

From Disturbing the Peace's comment below:

Routes from Climbers left to right.

(01) Vortex (5.12c?) - Starts left of the overhanging arete
(02) Texas Twister (5.12a) - Climbs the overhanging right leaning arete
(03) Revenge of the Little Fingers (5.10b) - The warmup
(04) Terror in the Trailerpark (5.10d) - Harder than it looks
(05) Gustnado (5.11a) - The best of the easy climbs
(06) Spidergrind (5.12a) - Hard and thin pronounced crux
(07) Unknown (5.12a)
(08) Flying Cows (5.12b)
(09) Fujimata (5.12a) - Another good warmup for the harder lines, feel good grade.
(10) Unknown (5.12c) - The first really steep line, fun endurance climbing. -This route is the one missing from the photo topos and throws the numbers off past this.-
(11) Rolling Thunder (5.13a) - Moderate climbing except for the crux...
(12) Never Saw It Coming (5.12d) - More fun endurance oriented climbing
(13) Goodbye Double Wide (5.13a) - Might have some loose blocks??
(14) Swept Away (5.12a) - The crag classic!
(15) It Sounded Like a Train (5.10c) - Another potential warmup
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Getting There

If you are in the canyon, head up canyon past the Solstice Cave, then over undulating terrain as the canyon bends to the south. After several hundred yards the cliff will appear on the right (west) wall of the canyon. Some easy bushwhacking may be required to reach the cliff base.

From the parking lot, head down the main approach trail in a NNW-erly direction. After 5 minutes, the Violence Wall approach spur splits off to the right. COntinue another few minutes, and another spur trail branches off to the left (west). Follow this spur towards the sunporch. Near the canyon bottom, several short, easy downclimbs are required. Once in the canyon bottom, cross the canyon and follow your nose to the wall.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tornado Alley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Terror in the Trailerpark
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gustnado
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swept Away
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fujimata
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flying Cows
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rolling Thunder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Terror in the Trailerpark 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gustnado 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Swept Away 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fujimata 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flying Cows 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rolling Thunder 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tornado Alley »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Vortex was rated 5.12d by the Kevin Wilkinson after his first ascent. I do not think is has gotten another ascent, thus this is only a single persons assessment. Historically speaking, Fred Nicole, friend to Jon came out for a tour and to crush it. Rumor has it that when frustrated by the awkward moves and the abundance of higher quality routes nearby, Fred lowered off the 3rd bolt of this route. Apr 16, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Routes from Climbers left to right.

01 Vortex (5.12c?) - Starts left of the overhanging arete
02 Texas Twister (5.12a) - Climbs the overhanging right leaning arete
03 Revenge of the Little Fingers (5.10b) - The warmup
04 Terror in the Trailerpark (5.10d) - Harder than it looks
05 Gustnado (5.11a) - The best of the easy climbs
06 Spidergrind (5.12a) - Hard and Thin, perhaps something broke?
07 Unknown (5.12a)
08 Flying Cows (5.12b)
09 Fujimata (5.12a) - Another good warmup for the harder lines, feel good grade.
10 Unknown (5.12c) - The first really steep line, fun endurance climbing.
11 Rolling Thunder (5.13a) - Moderate climbing except for the crux...
12 Never Saw It Coming (5.12d) - More fun endurance oriented climbing
13 Goodbye Double Wide (5.13a) - Might have some loose blocks??
14 Swept Away (5.12a) - The crag classic!
15 It Sounded Like a Train (5.10c) - Another potential warmup Feb 23, 2010
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Access note:

Any significant precipitation will cause all the routes between Flying Cows and Swept Away to be flooded (at least the landing). Mud usually persists for awhile, and Swept Away is always the last route on the wall to dry out. At least it does it before Santa Fe. Feb 4, 2008

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