Elevation: 5,270 ft
GPS: 32.236, -104.757 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,568 total · 95/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Tornado Alley is an excellent crag with a large variety of difficulties and styles. The wall offers a number of great lines in the 12+ and above range on steep swells, as well as a few technical slabs, and even one of the canyon's few crack routes.

The wall faces East, so receives morning sun and evening shade. The crag is in the relatively secluded upper half of the canyon, so this can be a good place to go to avoid crowds.

From Disturbing the Peace's comment below:

Routes from Climbers left to right.

(01) Vortex (5.12c?) - Starts left of the overhanging arete
(02) Texas Twister (5.12a) - Climbs the overhanging right leaning arete
(03) Revenge of the Little Fingers (5.10b) - The warmup
(04) Terror in the Trailerpark (5.10d) - Harder than it looks
(05) Gustnado (5.11a) - The best of the easy climbs
(06) Spidergrind (5.12a) - Hard and thin pronounced crux
(07) Unknown (5.12a)
(08) Flying Cows (5.12b)
(09) Fujimata (5.12a) - Another good warmup for the harder lines, feel good grade.
(10) Unknown (5.12c) - The first really steep line, fun endurance climbing. -This route is the one missing from the photo topos and throws the numbers off past this.-
(11) Rolling Thunder (5.13a) - Moderate climbing except for the crux...
(12) Never Saw It Coming (5.12d) - More fun endurance oriented climbing
(13) Goodbye Double Wide (5.13a) - Might have some loose blocks??
(14) Swept Away (5.12a) - The crag classic!
(15) It Sounded Like a Train (5.10c) - Another potential warmup

Getting There

If you are in the canyon, head up canyon past the Solstice Cave, then over undulating terrain as the canyon bends to the south. After several hundred yards the cliff will appear on the right (west) wall of the canyon. Some easy bushwhacking may be required to reach the cliff base.

From the parking lot, head down the main approach trail in a NNW-erly direction. After 5 minutes, the Violence Wall approach spur splits off to the right. COntinue another few minutes, and another spur trail branches off to the left (west). Follow this spur towards the sunporch. Near the canyon bottom, several short, easy downclimbs are required. Once in the canyon bottom, cross the canyon and follow your nose to the wall.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tornado Alley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
Terror in the Trailerpark
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 46
Gustnado
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 38
Swept Away
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
Texas Twister
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Fujimata
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Flying Cows
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Rolling Thunder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Terror in the Trailerpark
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gustnado
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Swept Away
 38
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Texas Twister
 17
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fujimata
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flying Cows
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rolling Thunder
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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