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Never Saw it Coming
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Tornado Alley
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Flying Cows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fujimata S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goodbye Doublewide S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gustnado S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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It Sounded Like a Train S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Never Saw it Coming S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Revenge of the Little Fingers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rolling Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Spidergrind S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swept Away S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Terror in the Trailerpark S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Texas Twister S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown (aka Shartnado) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 664 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Feb 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Description
Start up on easy juggy ground off the ledge on the right side of the wall. Pull through a few sequency moves passing the second bolt, and hit the bouldery crux at the third bolt. Persevere and pull the dihedral roof up to easier ground and a nice rest. Rest well because just below the anchors the jugs disappear for a final difficult sequence to obtain the finishing jug.
I gave this three stars because the great rest in the upper half of the route really breaks this route down into two bouldery areas. But this is really just nit-picking as this could easily be a four star route elsewhere in NM.
I gave this three stars because the great rest in the upper half of the route really breaks this route down into two bouldery areas. But this is really just nit-picking as this could easily be a four star route elsewhere in NM.
Location
Start below the dihedral break in the large roof on the right side of the wall. There seems to be a stray bolt just left of the start.
Between "Goodbye Double Wide" 13a and "Rolling Thunder" 13b. Second route left of the arete on the right side of the wall "Swept Away" Shown as route #11 on Monomaniac's topo.
Between "Goodbye Double Wide" 13a and "Rolling Thunder" 13b. Second route left of the arete on the right side of the wall "Swept Away" Shown as route #11 on Monomaniac's topo.
Photos
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