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Routes in Potrillo Cliffs

Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Belly Flop T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Belly Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grandstanding T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaky Flake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 95 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Shaky Flake goes up the low angled slab just to the left of Fickle Fingers. Start just a few feet to the left of Fickle Fingers, with a tough move off the ground and no protection for 2/3 of the climb, climbing up the slab with thin edges and delicate flakes. You might find tiny nut placements behind a flake, but don't count on it. At the top of the slab, you can get good pro, but the difficulty doesn't exceed 5.7 from here to the top.

If this line is set as a toprope, the easiest way up is to climb Fickle Fingers for the lower 1/2, and traverse left to the top of Shaky Flake- this is probably 5.8 or 5.9, certainly easier than either of the two climbs independently.

Location

This climb is route 9 in the online miniguide
It is in the middle of the West-facing side of Potrillo, just a little up and left of a juniper right by the cliff.

Protection

A couple of cams. Possible micronut placements on the slab start?
Some stuff for an anchor, or tie off trees.

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