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Pillars of Hercules (right var.)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 32
votes
Routes in Potrillo Cliffs
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Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Belly Flop T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Belly Up T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Grandstanding T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grandstanding Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shaky Flake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 35.7943, -106.2162 |
| FA: | G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955 |
| Page Views: | 2,227 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.
Protection
The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.
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