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Routes in Potrillo Cliffs

Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Belly Flop T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Belly Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grandstanding T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaky Flake T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Page Views: 964 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.

Location

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.

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