Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,255 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is route #2 in the LAM on-line guide.
The first moves off the ground are usually the most perplexing for people, but can be well protected. Then follow the nice hand/fist crack up the corner. Lots of stances along the way.
Some who have TR'd this route argue that the 5.6 is sandbagged, so maybe it is a solid 5.6+. But it is a truly excellent beginner trad lead once you feel comfortable with the opening moves. Anyone got any FA info?

Location

Far to the left (west/north) end of the crag, second-to-last route from the northern end of the west cliff. Left of the prominent roof.

Protection

Eats up #2-#4 camalots and/or a #11 hex.
Sufficient rock at the top for a gear anchor, but not a great one, and the nearest useable trees are a ways back from the rim. LOTS of loose gravel at the top.

Photos

Crisco Jackass
Grand Junction, CO
 
Crisco Jackass   Grand Junction, CO
 
FIRST TRAD LEAD. Description is apt, this is a great route for beginner lead. Lots of stances, straight-forward placements for both active and passive pro. Wife and I did it over and over again without any loss of excitement. May 27, 2008