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Routes in Potrillo Cliffs

Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Belly Flop T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Belly Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grandstanding T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaky Flake T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: LA Mountaineers (aid), First Free Ascent: Layton Kor, 1968
Page Views: 1,265 total · 10/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start behind the juniper, and move up the slick thin finger crack. The crux is about 8 feet up, and can be protected with cams and an attentive belay. Half way up the cliff, you'll reach a big ledge. On the FFA, Kor went left, to Upper Kor's Crack (5.9), but continuing straight up on Gymnast (5.8) is the most obvious choice.

Attention: this crack might eat your cams if you let them walk in. 2 are stuck in there, and have been for years.

The original 5.9 rating is a bit of a sandbag, as with many "5.9"s Layton Kor put up in the western U.S. when there were no 5.10s. Clark's guide calls this 5.10d- which is an overestimate, in my opinion this climb is easier than every 5.10d, 10c, or 10b at the Playground and the Old New Place. The difficulty is very likely subjective to the size of your fingers (bigger is probably better) and your confidence in trusting your feet in the slick corner. It's also hard to rate because it's really just a boulder problem crux.

Location

Just left of the point of the cliff, Lower Kor's is the thin finger crack starting behind the juniper.
It is route #15 in the Potrillo miniguide

Protection

Cams & nuts to 3".
2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10+
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10+
FWIW, I have big fingers and I'd say this climb is solid 5.10 on the bottom section. Feb 23, 2008
Devin Shunk
  5.10d
Devin Shunk  
  5.10d
No way this is a 5.9. Maybe if you use the tree. Even then I would say it would still be a low 10. Oct 26, 2008
Adam Roy
  5.10d
Adam Roy  
  5.10d
I'd give it a 10d, if only for the stopper moves down low. Jan 22, 2012

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