Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: LA Mountaineers (aid), First Free Ascent: Layton Kor, 1968
Page Views: 1,566 total · 10/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start behind the juniper, and move up the slick thin finger crack. The crux is about 8 feet up, and can be protected with cams and an attentive belay. Half way up the cliff, you'll reach a big ledge. On the FFA, Kor went left, to Upper Kor's Crack (5.9), but continuing straight up on Gymnast (5.8) is the most obvious choice.

Attention: this crack might eat your cams if you let them walk in. 2 are stuck in there, and have been for years.

The original 5.9 rating is a bit of a sandbag, as with many "5.9"s Layton Kor put up in the western U.S. when there were no 5.10s. Clark's guide calls this 5.10d- which is an overestimate, in my opinion this climb is easier than every 5.10d, 10c, or 10b at the Playground and the Old New Place. The difficulty is very likely subjective to the size of your fingers (bigger is probably better) and your confidence in trusting your feet in the slick corner. It's also hard to rate because it's really just a boulder problem crux.

Location

Just left of the point of the cliff, Lower Kor's is the thin finger crack starting behind the juniper.
It is route #15 in the Potrillo miniguide

Protection

Cams & nuts to 3".
2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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