All Locations > New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Potrillo Cliffs

Pillars of Hercules (left var.)

Name: Pillars of Hercules (left var.)
Rating: 2.2

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Potrillo Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Belly Flop T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Belly Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Grandstanding T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Grandstanding Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Shaky Flake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
FA:	G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Page Views:	1,971 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is route #18 in the on-line guide.
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This left start variation requires one first to mantle onto the left side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving left off this boulder and getting to the stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better. This is a great beginner trad lead, once you feel comfortable with the low crux.

Location

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here might land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.