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Routes in Potrillo Cliffs

Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Belly Flop T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Belly Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grandstanding T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaky Flake T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 672 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first listed variant of route #12 in the online guide.
Start up a broken crack system to a bulging block. Go around the right side, then aim left to gain a stance below a pair of converging cracks. Follow the flaring crack/seam on the right to the top.

Desperate (Left) is indicated as an option in the online guide, and by Beverly (2006:208) and Jackson (2006:189-190).
It's not clear from the guide books if the hand crack immediately to the left (Kor's Dog) is on or off. The online guide describes Desperate (Left) as following the "left-trending crack system to the top" (italics added), so I'd argue that both cracks are on-route, since they're only ~14 inches apart at the top.

Location

On the west-facing cliff. Start on the cracked face left of Gymnast/Upper Kor's.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 2.5". Gear anchor on top.

Photos

Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
At the top, the hand crack just to the left is apparently the 5.8 route "Kor's Dog." These cracks converge at the top, where they're only ~14 inches apart, so calling them separate routes seems contrived, if by that you mean that one crack is off-limits while you're climbing the other one.
I stuck with the Desperate crack until the last 3 feet, when I had to submit to the urge to jam a cam in Kor's Dog and yard up on the hand jams offered by that crack. Plus, all the while, I had been stemming off the wall farther left of Kor's Dog, so..... Was that wrong, should I not have done that? Mar 16, 2009
I agree completely. This isn't a gym. If it is within my reach, I will use it (a 6'8" wingspan allows me to reach many things that some probably consider "off-route" - but I don't care, I need all the help I can get). ;) Mar 17, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
I would agree for any area, you are outside everything is on. If a previous party did not use it that is their problem not yours and they were trying to force something that is not there or did a poor job of forcing it.

@ Devin, you make it sound as though a 6'8" wingspan is a disadvantage with your wording. I would tend to say that most people would disagree with that. Though when trying to do a tight cross or something it really is a disadvantage. Mar 17, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
Thanks guys. My George Castanza quote aside, I'm not too terribly worried about my choice to use both cracks. As long as the moves are 5.8. Mar 17, 2009
No, I didn't mean to make it sound that my wingspan was a bad thing. I can see how it sounds like that. I will change the wording. ;-) Mar 17, 2009

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