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Routes in Potrillo Cliffs

Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Belly Flop T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Belly Up T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grandstanding T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaky Flake T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 771 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - All Los Alamos/White Rock climbing areas closed due to Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is route #26 in the on-line guide.
Start up a broken crack system that is shared with Belly Up (a 5.7 that continues up straight). Traverse up and right to the top of a low pillar that gives access to a chimney behind another higher pillar to the right. A set of jammed flakes marks the top of the chimney. Once on top of the big pillar, up easy ground to the top.
Despite the easy rating, this actually isn't a great climb to TR with a total greenhorn/gym climber; there's something about the chimney that puts people off.....

Location [Suggest Change]

Middle of the south cliff. Basically shares the start with Belly Up. Beverley's guide indicates some harder alternate starts that can be climbed to the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Not far off the ground you can clip a fixed nut with a swaged wire that looks like it's been hammered on pretty hard.
Hanging a loose sling over the sharp flake at the top of the chimney is a shaky proposition at best, but it's really about the only pro going on in that wide crack, and this practice is noted as being the norm in the LAM on-line guide.
Easy enough to set a TR anchor at the top with gear.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.5
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.5
Instead of slinging the rock horn, its probably safer to sling a large chockstone in the same offwidth mentioned above. Jul 27, 2008
Steven Reneau  
5.6
The alternate routes to the right are listed as 5.8 and 5.6 in Beverly. Tried them yesterday, and thought they were ok variations, maybe 5.8- and 5.6-5.7. Jan 30, 2011

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