Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 799 total · 6/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This is route #26 in the on-line guide.
Start up a broken crack system that is shared with Belly Up (a 5.7 that continues up straight). Traverse up and right to the top of a low pillar that gives access to a chimney behind another higher pillar to the right. A set of jammed flakes marks the top of the chimney. Once on top of the big pillar, up easy ground to the top.
Despite the easy rating, this actually isn't a great climb to TR with a total greenhorn/gym climber; there's something about the chimney that puts people off.....

Location

Middle of the south cliff. Basically shares the start with Belly Up. Beverley's guide indicates some harder alternate starts that can be climbed to the right.

Protection

Not far off the ground you can clip a fixed nut with a swaged wire that looks like it's been hammered on pretty hard.
Hanging a loose sling over the sharp flake at the top of the chimney is a shaky proposition at best, but it's really about the only pro going on in that wide crack, and this practice is noted as being the norm in the LAM on-line guide.
Easy enough to set a TR anchor at the top with gear.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.5
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.5
Instead of slinging the rock horn, its probably safer to sling a large chockstone in the same offwidth mentioned above. Jul 27, 2008
Steven Reneau  
5.6
The alternate routes to the right are listed as 5.8 and 5.6 in Beverly. Tried them yesterday, and thought they were ok variations, maybe 5.8- and 5.6-5.7. Jan 30, 2011