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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Paul Obenheim, 1982
Page Views: 1,345 total, 11/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Dec 25, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Classic crack climbing in a wilderness setting. Sound familiar? This route is a great example of why people climb in the desert in the first place. Generous amounts of fist jams, wavy hands through a steep bulge, a few feet of offwidth keeps it scrappy before busting some face moves, thin hands crux (ring locks for my paws-tight #1 C4s), with a roof directly above for some juggy, but sandy fun. Easier after the roof. Since the route is rarely done, it's a bit crunchy, but if you wanted stonker granite, you wouldn't be bushwhacking around the least climbed side of Mescalito, would you?

Location

Finding the route is the crux of the day-the best I can tell you is that there's two side-by-side cracks going through a roof, they look sexy as hell from the wash, and you should pass CITH, walk another 100 feet, and start looking for 4th class access trending up and right towards the chimney "sit start." The area is very brushy-wear a longsleeve and jeans for the scrub oak if not the fist sections. A helpful hint if you can locate Crack Rock's finishing headwall crack (overhanging chocolate thin crack waay up there)-these cracks are down and just left of that route. I saw a fixed rope hanging up there while that route was being worked, so that would be the landmark for me.

Protection

Standard rack would leave you high and dry on this one-I brought the creek rack, and used a lot of it my first time on the route. Placed one #10 stopper, a blue TCU above the roof, and the guts of the rack would be a .75, two or three (more if not used to desert sandstone) #1s, 2s, and 3s. You won't regret having a #4 as well for the burly fist start, but the big cams are more useful on the route directly to the right. UPDATE: there is a shared anchor that popped up a year or 2 ago which gets you down with a 70, looks like a good way to do these routes if you're not going higher than the splitters. If continuing past these chains, a second rope and some bail webbing and/or nuts are probably key.

Photos

I replaced the crusty, rotten slings with a hole in them at the anchors. Enjoy the brand new slings when you get there.

On a pesonal note, I revisited this route twice last year, and found a double rack suited me fine. Members of my party had varying thoughts on the grade, but everyone enjoyed the route. The second pitch anchor was funky, eroding nuts. Matter of fact, the first pitch anchor was funky, eroding nuts. There's now a shared anchor with chain between the two OB routes that allows rapping with a 70. If going higher than this anchor, bring double ropes and slings to replace them, this area gets a lot of sun. Dec 25, 2007
A good thing to know about both these routes is to keep an eye out for the anchors after pulling the roof. My buddy was leading OB Fist (close enough for him to snag my #4 before I headed through the roof) beside me, and he ended up in slabby, no-holds, chossville nowheresland until herculean fighting the rope drag and shite for pro got him over to the crack system holding the fixed nut anchors. There is a second pitch above, but it looked really short-40 feet short. Also looked piss easy, but that might just be me. Dec 25, 2007