Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: FRA: Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 3,692 total · 23/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a surprisingly good route up the left side of the south face of the Mescalito Tower. Despite being on a south-facing wall, this route is not a great choice for very cold weather, as it gets a lot of shade from Juniper Peak in the winter.

p1. Easy cracks lead up to a belay in an alcove.
p2. Move left to cracks that lead back right above the big overhang.
p3. An easy chimney leads up and right. Exit left to a ledge with a bush.
p4. Climb up and left, over two ribs, to a right-leaning ramp.
p5. At the top of the ramp, balance up and go a long way left. Climb a varnished offwidth to a belay near a tree.
p6. Easy rock leads up and left to a large ledge.
p7. A few friction moves lead to a steep, right-facing corner.
p8. Climb the easier face to a belay beneath a long, right-leaning ramp.
p9. Follow the ramp to the top.

Location

Walk upstream from the Cat in the Hat area for a few hundred yards, passing beneath a weirdly eroded wall with an ominous, dirty chimney. Continue to the area where the canyon branches and start below a cave-like overhang.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos