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Routes in South Face

Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: FRA: Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 3,237 total · 24/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a surprisingly good route up the left side of the south face of the Mescalito Tower. Despite being on a south-facing wall, this route is not a great choice for very cold weather, as it gets a lot of shade from Juniper Peak in the winter.

p1. Easy cracks lead up to a belay in an alcove.
p2. Move left to cracks that lead back right above the big overhang.
p3. An easy chimney leads up and right. Exit left to a ledge with a bush.
p4. Climb up and left, over two ribs, to a right-leaning ramp.
p5. At the top of the ramp, balance up and go a long way left. Climb a varnished offwidth to a belay near a tree.
p6. Easy rock leads up and left to a large ledge.
p7. A few friction moves lead to a steep, right-facing corner.
p8. Climb the easier face to a belay beneath a long, right-leaning ramp.
p9. Follow the ramp to the top.

Location

Walk upstream from the Cat in the Hat area for a few hundred yards, passing beneath a weirdly eroded wall with an ominous, dirty chimney. Continue to the area where the canyon branches and start below a cave-like overhang.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
  5.9
Most obvious descent is to go west to the notch, then south with lots of scrambling and maybe 1 single-rope rappel to regain the streambed a few hundred yards upstream from the start of the route. Of course, any of the Mescalito descent options could be used. Oct 15, 2007

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