Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 36.12182, -115.49314
FA: FRA Jack Kelly, Andy Fitton
Page Views: 106 total · 58/month
Shared By: Jack Kelly on Jan 14, 2026
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Description Suggest change

An ok route, but a good adventure.
Scramble up some 4th class steps to the base of the chimneys proper. 

P1: Stem the outside of the chimney and swing into the squeeze. After the squeeze section, continue up varied cracks and grooves. Belay just below a large boulder capping the pitch (medium gear) or from above it. ~30m 5.8

P2: Walk back into the gully/chimney, working generally towards the left wall. Most parties will be comfortable unroped here. The next belay is in a narrow chimney on the left wall, with jugs and cracks on the right side. ~40m 3rd/4th class

P3: Climb up the short chimney on great holds. When it opens up, step around the rib to a crack on the right side of the gully. Climb this crack through a short tricky off width to a ledge just past a small tree. ~30m 5.8

A civilized rappel could probably be arranged from here with creativity, but instead thrash through the dense scrub thicket behind the belay (15 feet of unpleasant scrub).

P4: just past the thicket, a low angle ramp continues up and out of the gully against the left wall. After about 30m, step back right and onto 3rd class ledges and build a belay. Low 5th ~40m

From here, you have a variety of options--we scrambled up and right, merging into the main Mescalito descent trail just above the dark red rock. It may also be possible to traverse left towards the normal descent rap stations. Depending on exact route, some parties may want to keep the rope out.

Location Suggest change

Past the other South Face routes, about 100 yards downstream from where the rap gully deposits you in the wash. Find the right chimney from the wash and find a path through the brush (best to leave the wash a little below the chimney and then follow the wall up to it). The large boulder capping the first pitch is the obvious landmark.

Protection Suggest change

standard rack to #5. An extra 3 or 4 wouldn't go unused, but isn't necessary.

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