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Routes in South Face

Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Nick Nordblom & PVB - 1982.
Page Views: 210 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a good climb up twin cracks just right of OB Button. Using both a wide crack on the left (hands to OW) and a thin crack in the corner to the right, work up to a high roof. Perfect hands and face holds through the roof (crux) leads to easier ground and a shared anchor with OB Button. I think this is the better route of the two but they are both great.

Originally rated 5.9.

Protection

1x 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 Camalot
2-3x #1, #2, #3 Camalot
1x #4 Camalot

Location

Walk up the wash for 5 minutes past Cat in the Hat.

Use the photo to ID the routes from the wash below.

Continue past the routes 100-200 yards and then scramble up ramps and ledges back right towards the routes. Your passage will eventually be blocked by an interesting chimney (visible from the wash) lined with huecos: Climb up this at 5.0 and then scramble around the corner to the right to the start of the routes.

Photos

Peter J
Davis, CA
 
Peter J   Davis, CA
 
The approach is heinous. But there is a bolt to rap the chimney on the way back down Mar 31, 2018

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