Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ben Folsom October 1999
Page Views: 1,879 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Climb up a pillar (which moves, climb light and carefully) to a stance. Then climb a #1 camalot sized crack in the corner to a two bolt belay anchor below a roof. During the first ascent, I climbed the left side of the pillar via a difficult offwidth. Since the first ascent I have (and it looks like most people have) climbed the right side of the pillar via thin fingertip jams. The pillar does move and pinches your fingers when you are jamming. Climb light, to avoid having the pillar fall on top of you.


This route climbs up a pillar to a right facing corner a couple hundred feet to the right of Private Pizza.


Cams from small to #1 camalot sized camming units.


Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
I returned to this route on Nov. 18th 2007 and replaced the anchor bolts, and moved them a few feet higher. I still need to go back and clean up the bolts on the old anchor. I will try to get down there soon and patch the old holes. If the weather is good I will do it this coming weekend. Nov 19, 2007
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
As of 11/26/07 the anchors have been replaced and the old anchors patched. The pillar does move, so best to climb light on this route. I don't really worry about it tipping over, having climbed it 5 or 6 times, but if it did tip over, it would for sure kill the climber (and the belayer) so be forewarned. Above the pillar is a great layback crack. Nov 26, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Ben, or anyone, any idear what the route is to the left of Teeter Totter? It starts with a fingering, kinda mungy lower angle crack which gives way to a wider groove ending a nice bolted anchor on the left (from a flat stance). Nov 27, 2007
Adam Johnson
Park City, UT
Adam Johnson   Park City, UT
Toward the top took good .75 cams. Jun 30, 2010
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
BEWARE!!! I took a fall yesterday from near the top of the pillar and pulled three pieces (red metolius, purple TCU, and nut) landed on my belayer and broke his tib/fib. I had hung and pulled on all three of these pieces but a short fall and probable pillar movement popped them all easily. Luckily Mike Friedrichs and his friends Bruce and Gene were in the area, got cell reception, and assisted us and the Emery County paramedics and sheriff in getting my partner down and to the hospital. Thanks so much for your help - my partner is expected to make a full recovery!!!

I've talked to Ben and the plan is to add bolts next to the pillar as soon as possible and hopefully prevent a repeat experience. Even then as Ben suggests it will definitely be best to "climb light" on this route. Nov 8, 2010
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
No, the pillar was always tight against the wall, nothing wider than purple tcu's when we first climbed it. Actually the first time we climbed it I liebacked the wide crack on the left side of the pillar. I would still recommend not climbing this route due to the possibility of the pillar being pulled off onto climber and belayer. Apr 18, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
Cool route. We used nuts instead of cams for the piller and bear-hugged our way up. On the way down, I was able to lever the pillar with my nut tool - that's how loose it is. The crack above is fantastic. DON'T FALL! Nov 25, 2012
BJ Graham
Orem, UT
BJ Graham   Orem, UT
Please don't add any bolts, this is an awesome climb, probably doesn't deserve the x rating, it's just a little spicy. A little work could be done to the base to stabilize the pillar a little. Otherwise super fun, loved the upper crack Nov 26, 2012
Boulder CO
RockinGal   Boulder CO
We climbed this route yesterday. The pillar doesn't move, though the pro is thin and you may not want to fall on it. Our leader aided the first part. Crack above is good. Mar 17, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Didn't move on me at all. Many a rock has been placed under the pillar to increase stability. Exciting climbing on the first part leads to easy liebacking. Too bad that upper crack wasn't another 100 ft. Apr 13, 2014
We climbed this route Today. It is a very fine line but you may not want to take a big fall while climbing the pillar, since the protection is the smallest and the quality of the rock there somehow dubious. The pillar didn't move, but I was very careful. Besides, I didn't want to try it. The second half of the climb is very good, particularly if you can lock your hands in a size 1 or even .75 crack (I cannot). Otherwise, layback and have fun. Nov 6, 2016