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Routes in Private Pizza Wall

Black Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cheek Full of Redman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pat's Pizza T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Private Pizza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teeter Totter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Unknown Aid A2
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Handcrack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ben Folsom Oct. 1999
Page Views: 109 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climb the offwidth which turns into a squeeze chimney which gets wider until reaching a ledge below a roof and a single bolt anchor.

Location

This route is the offwidth/chimney system 40 feet right of Teeter Totter.

Protection

On the first ascent I only got one small cam in about 5 feet before the anchor. You could probably get a very large cam in just off the ground, but it wouldn't do much good. Tube chocks may protect the bottom 25 feet or so which is the crux.

Photos

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Ben Folsom  
 
On the first ascent of this I had a nice, bleeding cut on my ankle which put blood stains on the right wall of the crack. That is the reason for the name Black Blood. When I came back this weekend, the blood stains were still there! If you climb this route, you may want to bring a bolt kit and put in another anchor bolt as I only drilled one. I will try to get back shortly and re-due the anchor. When I do I will update this post. Nov 19, 2007