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Routes in Swaseyland

A Walk on the Swasey Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Cross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Division Bell Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Rock T C2
Maura's Tower - Join the Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Peanut Butter Jar, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2 PG13
Pleasant Surprise Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Grandmas fear to tread T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 130 ft
FA: John Glime, Ryan Cornia, Maura Hahnenberger, Ben Folsom Oct. 7, 2007
Page Views: 1,740 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 7, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This tower is located about 1/4 mile past Swaseys Cabin just past "A walk on the Swasey Side." It is located on the left (East) side of the road. Park and walk up an old road then into the drainage and up to the base of the tower. The approach takes about 10 minutes. The route climbs a nice crack system on the left side of the north face of the tower. Begin on a nice ledge above a sandy spot and climb a short slab passing two huecos to a finger crack. Climb the finger crack then reach left into a nice handcrack and climb to the roof. This section is 5.10. Continue up a three bolt ladder left around the roof to lower angle rock above and another bolt on a ledge. Climb 10 more feet to the summit and anchor.
There is a small cairn on the summit with a summit register underneath it.

Protection

A set of cams with a couple extra finger sized cams and hand sized units. I also placed stoppers. Quickdraws and long slings.
BrentL
Logan, UT
 
BrentL   Logan, UT
 
GPS Coordinates: 38.831580, -110.814111 Jun 28, 2016
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sorry for any confusion Andrew. When you were on 'A walk' the big drop on the right side is sort of like a little valley. Maura's Tower is in the back of that 'valley.' I got excited about Maura's tower when we climbed 'A walk.' It is pretty visible from the top I think. Depending on the lighting, Maura's was probably blending into rim rock. Just continue down the road past 'A walk' and when it opens up on the left, Maura's is back in there.

Hey Ben, it has been too long since we last climbed together... hope all is well. Nov 18, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
It is not on that same ridge. If you drove down the gnarly part of the road from the cabin and approached that ridge from below, Maura's tower would be on your right, as you are approaching Swasey side. It is an independant tower, not attached to anything else. Nov 17, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Is it on that same ridge of towers as a Walk on the Swasey Side? I looked at everything and nothing seemed to quite match up with the photos. Nov 17, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
Andrew, it looks like to climbed "A Walk on the Swasey Side", and this tower is about a 5 minute walk from that. If you climbed said route, this tower should have been visible from the summit, just a couple hundred yards to the southwest. I don't think I have a picture of if from the road, sorry, I'll keep looking. Nov 17, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
I'll look for a photo of this from the road. I'll also try to find my approach notes and post some clear info about the approach. Nov 17, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I couldn't find this - any more detailed approach beta, or a photo of what it looks like from the road? Nov 17, 2008
You guys look like you know how to have a good time! Cam Apr 5, 2008
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is labeled 5.10 only because Ben went for the on-sight free ascent and pulled cool moves on suspicious rock. For those of you like me, it also climbs as 5.5 C2! However, a full free ascent is more than probable now that the crux moves are protected by bolts. Oct 8, 2007