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Routes in Swaseyland

A Walk on the Swasey Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Cross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Division Bell Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Rock T C2
Maura's Tower - Join the Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Peanut Butter Jar, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2 PG13
Pleasant Surprise Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Grandmas fear to tread T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Glime, Ryan Cornia- 10/6/07
Page Views: 2,262 total, 18/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Oct 7, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Follow the obvious ridge line.

P1: Climb 5.5 past 3 bolts, then follow the ridge to a huge belay ledge.

P2: Move out onto the exposed arete, climb up past a few bolts to the final summit block. 5.6 (This pitch can be scary for the second due to the long traversing nature and potential for a pendulum.)

Rap: We used 2- 50 meter ropes. I am not sure if a single 60 meter rope would work. Rap off of two bolts.

Location

1/4 mile behind Swasey's Cabin. Depending on where you park your vehicle you may have a 5 minute or a 10 minute approach. See pictures, and you will recognize the formation.

Protection

Quickdraws... it is like sportclimbing.

Photos

BrentL
Logan, UT
BrentL   Logan, UT
GPS Coordinates: 38.835394, -110.813630 Jun 28, 2016
Sean Duffy
Boise, Idaho
Sean Duffy   Boise, Idaho
17 year rock climber of 500+ Western mountain routes here. Typical for a desert climb to be sandbagged a grade or two, but this wasn't close to the original. I guess some info is better than nothing. 5.8 to 5.9 . Used to be a little sandbagging made the areas stiff, or the climbers perceived "hard men", but these days the sand bagging to extremes just makes you the butt of jokes. Mar 30, 2015
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sorry 'bout that... Ross would have called it 5.3, so I was feeling conflicted. :)

I guess it is 5.7ish, and it is just spicy enough to be fun! Atleast I thought it was fun... Nov 18, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 R
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8 R
Sandbag! The first pitch is more like 5.7 or 5.8. The second pitch has a hard bouldery move to start that is hard 5.8 or maybe even 5.9. Falling before the first bolt would be a bad idea on both pitches.

This thing is definitely nothing like a sport climb, and a small rack of small to medium cams is a good idea to build an anchor at the top of P1. You can also get in a bit of gear on P2, which helps getting to the high first bolt and to protect the second after the last bolt. The traverses aren't scary for the second, but the runouts are definitely scary for the leader.

Nice tower in a beautiful area. A very atypical desert route. One 60m rope will not reach the ground on the raps, but one 70m probably would. Nov 17, 2008