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Routes in Swaseyland

A Walk on the Swasey Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Cross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Division Bell Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Rock T C2
Maura's Tower - Join the Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Peanut Butter Jar, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2 PG13
Pleasant Surprise Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Grandmas fear to tread T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Sept. 29, 2007
Page Views: 168 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climb a offwidth/chimney in a deep dihedral on the east face of the tower. Climb sustained 5.9 offwidth up into a short chimney. After the chimney follow the crack right and up(crux) to the summit. Belay in between the twin summits at a two bolt anchor.


Drive down the 4wd road past Swaseys Cabin. When you get two miles from the Swayseys Cabin parking area you can park in a small wash on your right. The tower is north of this parking area about 75 yards from the road.


I brought 3 sets of cams to #3 camalot. 1 #3.5, 1 #4, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5. And a set of stoppers. I wish I had brought more bigger cams and ended up doing a lot of sliding gear with me. A good rack would be two sets of cams to #2 camalot. 3 #3's, 2 #3.5's, 2 #4's, 2 #4.5's, and two #5 camalots. The crack is pretty sustained and wide.


John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Yeah, I walked around that thing looking, saw that line, it looked hard. I was trying to get to the formation on the left of Pleasant Surprise Tower, then realized it isn't actually a tower. Did you find Eagle Rock? About 100yrds past Pleasant Surprise you take a left and follow that road for 1/2 a mile. Oct 1, 2007
Ben Folsom  
This was a really good climb. We were searching for Eagle Rock when we ran across this. The crack looks chossy and loose from the ground, but for the most part it is totally solid on really good rock and very interesting climbing from Offwidth to chimneys to some good jamming up high. Anyway, we felt like finding this was a pleasant surprise, hence the name. Oct 1, 2007
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Bastard... ehr, I mean, nice work Ben! Oct 1, 2007