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Routes in Swaseyland

A Walk on the Swasey Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Cross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Division Bell Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Rock T C2
Maura's Tower - Join the Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Peanut Butter Jar, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2 PG13
Pleasant Surprise Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Grandmas fear to tread T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: James Garrett, solo, 30 September 1998
Page Views: 109 total, 1/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Approach the longest and steepest side of the Peanut Butter Jar. Perhaps named shortly thereafter and in reference to Frosty Weller's Mustard Jar route, also in the Southern Swell.

Pitch #1: Easy climbing steepens up a crack and at its end, pass a bolt and some soft nailing. Pass 3 more bolts over a roof to a soft crack/groove to another bolt. A blank section protected by two more bolts leads to a final right facing corner to the summit anchors. Great views in an environment of solitude. 5.5, A2, 50m

Cairn erected on top. FA of the tower at the time. Rappel the route.

This may have been climbed since and called something else, as it is an obvious tower with a short approach and short climb to its top. I am quite sure it had never been climbed prior to this ascent, however.

Location

The Peanut Butter Jar may be viewed from Broken Cross. As one is parked at the cabin, walk up canyon from Broken Cross and see a line-up of weak tower like formations along a ridge line to the south. One has a very blocky "jar-like" appearance, is its "summit" and has a very flat appearing top, hence, I called it The Peanut Butter Jar. About a 20 minute hike (if I recall correctly) to its base on flat ground in the high country....you won't have to descend down into ravines or gulches.

Protection

QDs and set of Camalots and set of assorted variety of pitons.

Photos

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