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Routes in Swaseyland

A Walk on the Swasey Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Cross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Division Bell Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Rock T C2
Maura's Tower - Join the Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Peanut Butter Jar, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2 PG13
Pleasant Surprise Tower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Grandmas fear to tread T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 110 ft
FA: John Glime, Matt Cifrese: Cinco de Mayo, 07
Page Views: 1,733 total, 13/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on May 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This tower is too beautiful to be named such a boring name, however, near the base of the route is inscribed the words, "This is Eagle Rock." How can I argue with that?

On the south side of the formation, follow the bolt line. This route consists of about 20 bolts that connect 2-3 short sections of C1 and C2 climbing.

The route follows cracks until about halfway, then C0 bolts up under the roof, around to the right, and up the final headwall.

This is the kind of tower that makes even non-climbers want to climb it.

Beautiful tower in a beautiful setting, however, from the summit I was able to see semi-trucks passing by on I-70.

Location

Drive on the 4WD road past Swasey's Cabin. You will descend into a canyon, at the bottom, the road will split to the right and to the left. Take the left track and 1/4 of a mile from the turn you will see the tower on the right.

Protection

Blue aliens to a 4 camalot. At the base of the route, you can see the sizes you should need. A couple of wires or tie-offs for two studs. 20-ish quickdraws.
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  C2
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  C2
Very cool tower in a beautiful place. It would be popular if it wasn't at the bottom of a rough 4WD road.

The two hangerless bolts are a bummer. The first one doesn't have a nut, and you'd deck on a slab if the rivet hanger came off. It should be replaced, or at least bring a nut to thread on the bolt - looks like a 3/8" wedge bolt? The second hangerless bolt is pulling out, and should definitely be replaced.

I wouldn't have believed you could see traffic on the interstate until getting to the summit and seeing for myself. The trucks don't look real floating above the canyon rim. Dec 3, 2012
This tower is really beautiful. The climb is great and goes quick as much of it is a bolt ladder. There are still some tricky moves to contend with which add some excitement on the climb. Nice Job John Glime and great find! Maura Hahnenberger and I climbed this tower on Oct. 13th, 2007 and I am pretty sure we did the second ascent. Great tower, nice climb and great summit. I guess the only drawback was the 30 or so four wheelers that came by while we were on the summit. They were all nice though and waved at us up there. I can't be too hypocritical since I drove my truck down there too. Oct 15, 2007
Bill Duncan
Jamestown, CO
Bill Duncan   Jamestown, CO
Yepper, and it's easy on the eyes, too. May 22, 2007
Now THAT would constitute a tower. May 6, 2007