Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Right Arrow

Ecksteinator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Feet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hostile Takeover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hostile Takeover Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lancelot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Punks on Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Under Siege S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Juan Lopez
Page Views: 66 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Happy Feet is a variation to the stellar Hostile Takeover that avoids the difficult roof-crux. This line still packs plenty of punch, sharing the first three bolts of extreme face climbing on HT. Begin as for HT, but after reaching the ramp'ish rock above the third bolt, head right and over the bulge with relative ease to a long headwall of excellent 5.10 face climbing.

Another variation to Happy Feet avoids the crux bolts 1-3 by scrambling up to the upper Perp Area and traversing into Happy Feet at ~10c.

Location

Start as for Hostile Takeover but veer right after the 3rd bolt.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Dave Wachter
  5.11b/c
Dave Wachter  
  5.11b/c
Excellent sustained technical face climbing! Crux seemed to me to be the lower section (shared with hostile takeover), but this one will hold your interest all the way to the top. I beg to differ with the 5.10 rating for the upper section (though I suppose if the best holds are chalked up it could be easier than I found it). In any case, this is old school climbing so don't be surprised by the old school rating.
I thought the rock seemed solid, but just saw the comment about a trundled rock. Bottom line is that some crags like Gilman and Diablo (Solar Cave, Sun Devil and Winter Walls) just keep on exfoliating and can never be trusted. Be careful what you pull or step on and a helmet is highly recommended for belaying! Jul 15, 2012