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GPS: 35.7358, -106.764
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,019 total · 113/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
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Warning Access Issue: May 2, 2025 - Gilman Tunnels Temporary Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon.

Getting There Suggest change

About 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet.

18 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Broken Arrows Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Broken Arrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
● Trads into Rads
Sport
Left Arrow
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
● Entrapment
Sport
Left Arrow
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Old Punks on Crack
Trad
Right Arrow
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
● Cyber Crime
Sport
Left Arrow
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
● Big Brother
Sport
Left Arrow
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
● Happy Feet
Sport
Right Arrow
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
● Under Siege
Sport
Right Arrow
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
● Hostile Takeover
Sport
Right Arrow
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● Ecksteinator
Sport
Right Arrow
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
● Dough Boy
Sport
Perp Area
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Trads into Rads Left Arrow
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Entrapment Left Arrow
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Old Punks on Crack Right Arrow
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Cyber Crime Left Arrow
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Big Brother Left Arrow
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Happy Feet Right Arrow
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Under Siege Right Arrow
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Hostile Takeover Right Arrow
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Ecksteinator Right Arrow
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Dough Boy Perp Area
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Broken Arrows »

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Photos

Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while Joe finishes up Entrapment. Photo by Jason Hundhausen.
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC whi…
 0
A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Arrow. The Right Arrow is to the right in profile. The small, leaning wall left of the Left Arrow is the Gyno Wall.
A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Arrow. T…
 0

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