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Routes in Right Arrow

Ecksteinator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Feet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hostile Takeover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hostile Takeover Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lancelot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Punks on Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Under Siege S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Unknown (Juan Lopez or Bob Moor?), 1st Recorded Ascent: Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler, and Karl Kiser
Page Views: 166 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matt Price on Oct 20, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This superb route follows the splitter crack in the middle of the Right Broken Arrow face. The climb starts in a dihedral (a convenient bolt keeps this part from being too runout), and transition into the splitter crack after pulling through a small overhang section. The combination of dihedral, crack, and face moves makes for a great climb on solid rock.

Location

Cross the river and start in the right facing dihedral on the right side of the crag. Located to the left of Hostile Takeover.

Protection

Stadard rack up to 3", longer slings to reduce rope drag during the bottom moves. Shares anchor with Hostile Takeover.

Photos

Wes Martin
Denver, Colorado
Wes Martin   Denver, Colorado
decent route, pretty chossy, at the crux pulling into the crack there is lots of loose rocks, be especially careful here Dec 4, 2016
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
Hmmm... Maybe I am spoiled when it comes to crack climbing, but there was absolutely nothing splitter about this thing. I def agree with the start being the most enjoyable part of the route. If you are uncomfortable with the high bolt, you could get a bomber med size nut in a few feet below the bolt. Crack takes pretty decent pro, but is by no means "splitter." I wouldnt recommend it too highly... unless, like me you are desperate to climb a crack at Gilman. Great way to set up a TR on Hostile Takeover! May 16, 2012
Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and I placed the anchor on this route but there had been a previous FA. Apr 2, 2008