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Routes in Right Arrow

Ecksteinator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Feet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hostile Takeover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hostile Takeover Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lancelot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Punks on Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Under Siege S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chris Eckstein, Mark Beverly, Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 190 total, 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless 5.10 face moves await. Snake back and forth up the long wall staying right of the splitter crack.

Location

On the right end of the Right Arrow, beginning two feet right of the the obvious right-facing dihedral at the base of the wall.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
To keep the crux the lower bulge and the upper section only 5.10 alot of wandering is required on the upper face. I remember a traverse left between the last bolt and anchors. Going direct made the finish the crux. Oct 25, 2007